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Water Pump seal and Crank Pulley Hob Install Questions

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  • Water Pump seal and Crank Pulley Hob Install Questions

    After spending nearly 2 weeks (on and off) doing the spark plug, wires, Optispark, Water Pump and Timing Cover seals on my '95 T/A I found that I have a slight leak around the Crank Nose seal.

    First, off I played hell getting the crank pulley hub off tonight but when I finally did get it off the seal came out and went in very easily (I should've changed this the first time I had everything off!). Anyway, it is in but I'm having a tough time getting the hub in the fully seated position. Any suggestions? The Harmonic Balancer tool I rented doesn't have the 7/16-20 thread which is needed to draw the hub onto the crank snout. Do you use the original bolt and an Impact? Your expirience?

    Secondy, please check the attachment I have of my Water Pump seal in the Timing Cover. I recently installed it. Does it appear to be correct? What I mean is that the Yellow seal protruding away from the Timing Cover as opposed to be inverted like the seal delivered. As Far as I could see I could not avoid inverting the Yellow seal outward while trying to install it over the splined shaft. Make sense? Has anyone expirienced any leaks with it this way if it isn't correct?

    I'm hoping it is right. I'm really getting tired of living in and under this car.

    Thanks for any input you might have
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I did just about everything you did a few months ago. For the crank pulley hub I tightened the bolt down till it was decently snug then put a torque wrench on it and put it down to the desired ft\lb. I forget what the exact ft\lb is but you want to make sure that it is tightened down well you don't want that flying off.

    You probably need a new water pump seal that one looks like the rubber inside was damaged. I went through three of them before getting it right on the 4th try thanks to Joe. Screw 2 screws into the seal or use a slide hammer to get it out if you don't want to take your timing cover off again. When putting on the new seal cut a 1in X 3in piece of plastic from a 2L soda bottle and wrap it around the shaft. Make sure to lube the seal very well then slide the seal over the plastic place a deep well socket behind it and carefully and evenly tap it in with a hammer. Once its in use a pair of plyers to remove the plastic and it will be on without your seal getting ripped up by the splines. I hope this helps PM me if you need anymore help.
    1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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    • #3
      I think the hole in the crank is a 5/8 fine thread - I used a piece of a threaded rod from the hardware store and some nuts & washers to make an install kit & push the hub back onto the crank. You thread the rod into the crank, then tighten the nuts to push the hub on. You DO NOT use the crank bolt to push it on because you may pull the threads out of the crank when you are starting and only have a couple threads engaged.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys for the info. I finally got it back together and so far everything appears to be fine. I'm keeping my fingers crossed just for good measure.

        Thanks again!

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