Which brand of 4.10 gears should I get. I am considering GM, SLP, and Richmond. I have always had good luck with Richmond gears, but.... The 4th gen is a different animal.
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Which brand of 4.10s?
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Which brand of 4.10s?
'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas JeffersonTags: None
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Well, I will say this. DO NOT get Richmond. They are very noisy.
I would say you have two choices: GM (or Motive) brand or US Strange. I liked the Strange because of lower cost and dependability. However, GM are just as good, just a bit pricier.
Make sure you "upgrade" the rest of the components while you in there. Cheap insurance against premature breakage.Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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GM has the most sucess in f bodies. get the install kit too. use synthetic gear oil (mobil 1. and add one bottle of the addititive for the cluster gears).
The Goldens: Reno and Rocky


2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.


Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.
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What upgrades do you recommend? Do you recommend a kit? I found the Strange gears at Thunder Racing. I just need to get 4.10s installed until I can afford to get a Strange or Moser 12 bolt. I don't think I will break anything, hopefully. I don't do a lot of hard launches on slicks or anything. I have directional/semi-aggressive 315/35/17s on the rear that are pushed on a course or track. It is really lame that GM didn't use a 12 bolt stock.Originally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Make sure you "upgrade" the rest of the components while you in there. Cheap insurance against premature breakage.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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Where is a good source for these?Originally posted by wolfman
GM has the most sucess in f bodies. get the install kit too. use synthetic gear oil (mobil 1. and add one bottle of the addititive for the cluster gears).'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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Two places I've used before are www.tbyrnemotorsports.com and www.thunderacing.comOriginally posted by markd79ta
Where is a good source for these?
Thunder Racing had the best gear package for me since I needed gears for series 2. Also purchased the higher end install kit....basicaly have a "new" rear diff now.Joe K.
'11 BMW 328i
'10 Matrix S AWD
Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP
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I am excited!!!
I just called the differential builder I used for my Blazer just out of curiosity. He did an excellent job on the beast so maybe he will do this. He does mostly big trucks so I didn't know what he thought of my 10 Bolt. Anyhow, he apparently does a lot of them, and he keeps a good supply of Strange gears and install parts. Well, he is going to do my gears, 4.10s, including parts and labor for $525. He concurred that the Richmond's are not that great. I am excited, and I plan to set the appointment next week.'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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Upgrades...
Get yourself some trick parts from Ratech...I've used them for three years now, they work great and are cheap insurance.
One is the solid spacer. It is a great improvement over the crush sleeve.
The other is the Bearing cap studs. They replace the flimsy bolts to keep the bearings from twisting and prematurely wearing. Both Ratech kits are real cheap. I got mine directly from Ratech.
Finally, I would suggest a good aluminum diff. girdle/cover. While I'm not sure if the added ridgity helps any, the preload bearing cap bolts help to keep the bearing caps from twisting...kind of double insurance against loosing your set up and spacing of the gears.
My Strange set up has lasted with no problems. I paid $165 for the 4.10's, $99 for the install kit, $50 for the Ratech parts, $110 for the diff. cover, about $5.00 for the fluids, and $225 for the install. I also installed a take-off Torsen differential that I picked up from SLP for good measure.
Best mods. I've done to date. Have you thought about how to calibrate your speedo???Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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Re: Upgrades...
I will ask the builder about the Ratech parts you mentioned. I have an HPP3 so I can set the PCM with that. I use it for the fans, and I installed the power program for the heck of it. It made the car respond a little better at this altitude. I do need a custom program though because of the altitude. Eventually, I will get LT1 edit and play. The stock program is just a little too rich...bummer, and lot more costly then new jets on my Carter AFB in the BlazerOriginally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Have you thought about how to calibrate your speedo???
Oh, do you have a number for ordering the parts from Ratech?'77 K5 rock-crawler project
'79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
'87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
'94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
'97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
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Al 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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BAS
I bought the Superior Gears from Tom Byrne MotorSports. They are also GM factory gears.
Anyways, the install kits that you get are WORTHLESS.
The Helm's manual says to throw away
the factory spacers, as they may break when
reinstalled.
There is no way that differential is going back
in with those spacers if you put new side
differential bearings on. Maybe that is why
so many shops FAIL on gear installs.
GM has real side bearing replacement shims
from .030? thru .080?
The ones in the "install kit" were like .012, .013,.011, .010.. WTF
After test fitting the diff, (and using a feeler
gauge to find the correct thickness you want),
you have to add/remove from each side
to change backlash.
Then once you find the correct setting, you
increase each side by .004 and install those
shims. That makes the differential tight.
I ended up moving my differential to the left
quite a bit.
Those Helm tools are expensive, but I did
the job right!
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