My dad is considering getting a hydraulic lift as a present for the garage once its finally cleaned out... what would be the minimal ceiling height needed? im pretty sure our garage has a 12 foot ceiling... is that going to be enough?
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darkz711Tags: None
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You can get an idea here:
http://www.asedeals.com/garage_lift.htmlRob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com
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12 foot is fine. 14 is ideal. I've got friends with ceilings less than 10' and they get by. I think you'll be just fine with the 12.
I've got 14' vaulted ceilings in the garage and I can lift a car all the way to the top with the hood open without problems. I have a Perfect Park 7000 but they are all pretty good. There are outside and inside sliders. 2 post and 4. You just have to decide if you are wanting to unload the suspension or if you want to keep a car stored on it. Here is an old pic but it shows the ceilings.
LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.
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darkz711
Originally posted by Performin Norman12 foot is fine. 14 is ideal. I've got friends with ceilings less than 10' and they get by. I think you'll be just fine with the 12.
I've got 14' vaulted ceilings in the garage and I can lift a car all the way to the top with the hood open without problems. I have a Perfect Park 7000 but they are all pretty good. There are outside and inside sliders. 2 post and 4. You just have to decide if you are wanting to unload the suspension or if you want to keep a car stored on it. Here is an old pic but it shows the ceilings.
you know, with all the amazing cars you have, you could atleast epoxy seal and paint the garage floor
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You can look into lifts that have the crossmember running across the bottom, on the floor, rather than across the top like most of them. This will greatly reduce the need for ceiling height. My father's shop only has 12 foot ceilings and he uses Eagle lifts. Most cars go up fine to the point where you can walk under them nicely.....its the vans that are the problem.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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Norm, of all the cars in your garage, im gonna ask about that daytona. What is it? Shelby Z? T2? All stock?96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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darkz711
Originally posted by N20LT4BirdYou can look into lifts that have the crossmember running across the bottom, on the floor, rather than across the top like most of them. This will greatly reduce the need for ceiling height. My father's shop only has 12 foot ceilings and he uses Eagle lifts. Most cars go up fine to the point where you can walk under them nicely.....its the vans that are the problem.
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Nice.....nothing against Norm's set-up (its freakin awesome), but I would get regular lift like the one at school (not a drive-on). I think it gives you a little more versatility in the jobs that you are able to do....especially if youre gonna be yanking the motor out of your Z.
Check out "Eagle" lifts. They are inexpensive, and they dont require much celing height.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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darkz711
Originally posted by N20LT4BirdNice.....nothing against Norm's set-up (its freakin awesome), but I would get regular lift like the one at school (not a drive-on). I think it gives you a little more versatility in the jobs that you are able to do....especially if youre gonna be yanking the motor out of your Z.
Check out "Eagle" lifts. They are inexpensive, and they dont require much celing height.
definitely. So you are recommending a post lift like the one at school. it has 4 spots to balance the car on it right?
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Originally posted by darkz711definitely. So you are recommending a post lift like the one at school. it has 4 spots to balance the car on it right?
Right. Lets say you want to pull the motor on your camaro......you have to lift the body off of the subframe and drop the motor out the bottom. Thats not too easy on a drive-on ......but if you need to load the suspension on a post style lift you can always use jack stands under the control arms to do it. I would definately do a post style lift like the one at school. (the one pictured in my signature)96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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darkz711
ya those eagle ones are about $2k which really isnt bad figuring the use we'll probably get out of it with restoring a car. Lots easier than jack stands and a lot safer.
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