I always wanted to but never did because all of my buddies are Ford guys so I just went along with it. I have owned 3 different mustangs. My first one was a 93 that I kept dumping money into, it ended up with a 427 stroker small block and a C6 auto trans that ran a best 1/4 of 11.67@117mph at 4700ft elevation. The second one was a 86 SVO mustang with a built 2.3 4 banger and a T3/T4 hybrid turbo putting about 350 horses to the GROUND! The Chevy guys will love my third mustang as it has a 96 Vortec 350 in it with a TH350 trans! I still own the third one. Today I ran into a deal I just could NOT pass up. I customer brought a 1994 Red Z28 6 speed into my work last week with a leaking radiator and blown head gaskets. We put a brand new radiator in the car and milled the heads and replaced the head gaskets. When the customer came to pick up the car he said how pissed off he was at the car and said he wanted to be rid of it. He said "$3500 and it yours." So needless to say I now own it! I have never been into the late model Chev crowd so I don't know what my best bang for the buck mods are. Help me get some more power out of this thing for the least money possible! Where do I start, it is currently %100 bone stock except milled heads and its got 105,000 miles on it.
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Slp loudmouth $300
Intake - $150
Longtube headers - around $400
Do that first, then it will sound so good you will want to
. Then id look into gears, and some suspension mods to help it hook up.
-Nick-
95 A4 Z28 -
as Nick said, it's all about intake and exhaust. Get more air in and out and it will make power. Start with the intake ducting and replace it with a K&N FIPK or similar, then go with a 3" high-flow catback exhaust and headers. Next step is heads and cam. You can do suspension upgrades along the way. Our cars respond well to subframe connectors, lower control arms, relocation brackets and adjustable torque arms.
I have also owned both f-bodies and a Mustang. My mustang was a black 1994 GT convertible with a automatic. I bought it after owning many f-bodies and was never happy with it. I just don't like the seating position. It is too upright and rigid. The shifter is located poorly. The F-body sits you lower to the ground more like a go-cart and the shifter is in the perfect location. F-bodies are also faster stock and handle better. (comparing apples to apples) IMO, the F-body is better looking as well. I cant think of a simgle aspect of that Mustang that I prefered over a Camaro. I'll never own another one but it was worth owning one as a learning experience I guess.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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The same things that benefit a Mustang will help an F-body. With you're knowledge and experience with Mustangs, you should be able to build the car up without any problems. They're similar cars, the f-body's just better
Dave M
Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!
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For one thing, you're already ahead of the game. You don't have that pesky blue oval causing problems.
As everyone said, an SLP Loudmouth exhuast helps tremendously, followed by intake and headers. You'll be happy with the end result.SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
17K Miles
2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth
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The factory exhaust is pretty restrictive, the rear suspension componants are a bit flimsy and need an upgrade to put the power down. The cars need some weight reduction.
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Been there done that with the stangs. Mine was an 85 that had the B302-B cam with head work, Tremec, 3.55 8.8 housing after ripping a tooth off of the 3.73 7.5 axle, and the complete SVO suspension (you know what all of that is) just to hit the high points. It had nitrous at one time but I got tired of filling bottles.
Things you will want.
A better Hurst shifter.
Skip shift eliminator
Cold air intake is the #1 first thing to do. The air tube has a major restriction where it goes between the radiator and the ABS pump.
Cat back to open up the other end.
From there it depends on what you want. I personally like the difference better front and rear sway bars made. What a difference.
Things to note.
1. LT1 are notorious for having OPTI problems especially when the water pump seal goes bad. It will leak on the OPTI and kill it.
2. LT1s are notorious for the rear of the intake manifold leaking oil. If you have a stick like you do, it can get on the clutch and make it slip or cause a weird vibration problem.
3. Rear ends are week and there isn't factory better one like the 8.8 was in the Mustang. The only option is upgrading to a strange or 9" Ford which is over $2000. So watch those 5000 RPM clutch dumps or you'll be buying a new rear end.
Web sites to frequent.
The #1 tech site is Shoebox's (Robs) http://shbox.com/page/index.html
Lots of good tech help here too http://www.projecttransam.com/
As for parts, check out the forum sponsors.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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Glad you have seen the light......
You can get an LT1 car into the 12's fairly easily and inexpensively with just bolt-ons. From there, its power adders and internal heads/cam work....and then the sky is the limit.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
)
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Who makes the best CAI for the most reasonable price? The intake was just resealed because we had the heads off and milled them. We replaced the clutch about a month before the head gaskets and he had someone else do the water pump about 2 months before that so I hope there is not a whole bunch more to go wrong in the near future, it won't bother me too much if it does because I only paid 3500 for a car that looks like it just rolled off the show room floor. I am a driveability tech at a very large and succesful independant shop and I have never had a camaro come to me with ignition problems before. Maybe its because the people that drive them are smart enough to fix them on their own?Comment
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Visit some of our sponsors and see what they have in their Induction sections. I think SLP is usually viewed as the best, there's also K&N, Moroso, and a few others.Dave M
Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!
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Personally, I like the SLP cold air kit. This is a high qualtiy piece, steel construction..... many others are just plastic.
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I bought the Moroso and if I had to do it all over again I would definitely get the SLP. http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...14&BIG=21014-12002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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