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How far will the stock LT1 cam take you?

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  • How far will the stock LT1 cam take you?

    I already have a new opti and water pump, and now removing the heads. I don't feel like changing the cam at this moment, but would be willing to do it in the future (a year or so). Going all out with other bolt-ons (headers, exhaust, tuning, rockers, CAI), how far can the stock cam take you?

    I am guessing that the replies will be to just change it. Thought I would ask anywho.

    Sean
    1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

  • #2
    Save the cam change for when you do heads, and in the meantime, if you go with 1.6:1 rockers, you will pick up some lift & duration which is enough to notice.

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    • #3
      Kevin's right. I don't really see the point in a cam with these stock heads. They're dying to be ported. You will still gain hp, but it'll just raise the band in top end, and lower it somewhere else.
      Also, don't forget...if you've got some miles, doing the cam without rebuilding the bottom end could result in a spun bearing due to the increased RPMs. I think it was ~42% in a cz28 poll.

      As far as taking an all bolt-on car as far as you can...according to a thread on cz28, there is someone who ran 11.9 with an "all bolt-on" LT1. I didn't think it was possible, but someone has done it. Maybe he had a huge weight reduction and insane suspension?? There are many others in the mid to high 12s with all bolt-ons but not too crazy (i.e. no huge weight reduction, etc.). However, to accomplish these ETs on a stock motor, you will need an amazing 60' time.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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      • #4
        Sorry if I wasn't a 100% clear, but the heads are already off. And I was thinking about dropping some money into them. What I didn't want to do is take the new pump and opti off. So the question is pretty much, what if you do everything (including P&P) except a cam change? I will definately change it, just not now.

        I know it seems like having the heads off is a good time, but a lot of the parts to be removed for a cam swap are still in place with the heads off (pump, opti, radiator, timing cover, etc.).

        If I do go with a cam, I want to maintain the LT1's low end responsiveness. I doubt I'll go all out (famous last words), and just want to bring the Z28 up to modern performance standards = enough to keep most rice in the mirror.

        Remember friends CA emmisions too.

        Thanks
        Sean
        1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

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        • #5
          A really good setup is getting your heads P&P by Lloyd Elliot. LE2 heads + LE1 cam = great streetability while running mid to low 12s. It will also supposedly pass smog...as long as you get it tuned.
          I've seen dyno results on a Lloyd Elliot heads/stock cam combo. The heads flowed ~270/185 or so. He put down 320 RWHP on a stock tune, A4, with most bolt ons (headers, 1.6 RRs, etc.). With a tune, I'm guessing it'll max out around 330-340 RWHP. That's definitely not bad on an automatic. Of course, if you get the cam, you'll see that much more power on good heads. But risk the bearings if you've got miles, raise the rev limiter, and/or something happens in the install.
          Just my $0.02...
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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