Is there any aftermarket grills for a 97 TA WS6... Mine are just plain black, and I was thinking of painting them silver, or is there any aftermarket chromed grills? Or is it easier/more cost efficient to just paint them? Any idea's?
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i painted our with a chromium spray paint... they looked just fine. did the CompTA and the Hawk....
The Goldens: Reno and Rocky
2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.
Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.
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Originally posted by Need4Speedhow do you take the grills off? I'm afraid I'm might snap it... any suggestions?Hercules
2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT
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Originally posted by DJ TasoPop your hood and look behind the grills. There should be hooks that hook onto your hood. Using your fingers, press against the hooks and push the grills outward. They come off very easily you don't have to worry about breaking them. Also, allow 24 hours drying time. Don't paint them and just stick them back on right away.
Ahh, thanks... I looked briefly behind the hood, and I believe there was a 'foam-pad' cover the grill itself. So, looking from the outside I saw the hooks, but was afraid to attempt on pulling them from that side. Again, I didnt look at it very long, just glanced for a second
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You can't actually see them from insdie the hood unless you cut the baffles out. Mine are plastic, and have the little squared off clips, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. I got a "pick" with a hook on the end and used it to pull the edge right next to the clip.
I prefer black though.... don't like the silver or other colors.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerYou can't actually see them from insdie the hood unless you cut the baffles out. Mine are plastic, and have the little squared off clips, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. I got a "pick" with a hook on the end and used it to pull the edge right next to the clip.
I prefer black though.... don't like the silver or other colors.
Yea, thats what I thought... I'm going to have to try that method, I think.
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They seem fairly rugged, and although they feel like plastic they will bend and take a "set" like metal. One of the little fingers on one of my grills has caused a bump in the edge of the grill. I'm tempted to take them off and leave them off, unless its for a "show".
A buddy of mine with a white TA removed the grills, filed the openings larger, and smoothed the entire inside of the openings so it was just an extension of the surface at the bottom of the nostrils. Should provide a much better air flow than the irregular shape of the stock passage from the openings to the filter.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by InjuneerThey seem fairly rugged, and although they feel like plastic they will bend and take a "set" like metal. One of the little fingers on one of my grills has caused a bump in the edge of the grill. I'm tempted to take them off and leave them off, unless its for a "show".
A buddy of mine with a white TA removed the grills, filed the openings larger, and smoothed the entire inside of the openings so it was just an extension of the surface at the bottom of the nostrils. Should provide a much better air flow than the irregular shape of the stock passage from the openings to the filter.
Show... yea, pretty much. How did the nostrils look shaved? And wouldnt too much bugs/debree from the road come through the openings?
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Originally posted by Need4SpeedShow... yea, pretty much. How did the nostrils look shaved? And wouldnt too much bugs/debree from the road come through the openings?
Eric W.
89 Firebird Formula WS6
Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
6.2L/382.97 ci
Custom PROM Dyno tuned
WCT-5 speed
BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
Boss MS 18" Rims
Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
Custom Dual exhaust
1LE upgrade
Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
In a constant state of upgrade!
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The openings look great with the surfaces extended smoothly all the way inside the openings. I can't remember if my buddy had a problem, but another guy with the UltraZ hood from SLP cut all the baffles out, and he had a ton of leaves and dead bugs on the filter most of the time.
I would not recommend cutting the baffles out completely for a street driven car. On mine, the air filter was getting water on it just from towing the car in the rain. I bought a big foam Moroso bug-catcher plug and stuffed that in from behind the openings when I tow.
My scoop actually looks better than the picture, but the flach made the flat black paint on the inside of the hood look like its white....
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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