Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

I just Thought my problem was fixed

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • I just Thought my problem was fixed

    Hi Guys!

    Well, if you will remember me telling ya about my car's popping in the exhaust!

    After replacing the O2 Sensors and Air Check Valves. It ran much better but after driving it again. It is still doing it.

    It will do it in Open loop, as well as, Closed loop.
    Do you guys think that when I had the dealer do my plugs and wires that they just really didn't change the plugs and just said they did.

    I noticed that there is some oil leaking from around where the optispark meets up with the motor. Do you think oil could have gotten in the opti?

    I put new Delphi 24lb injectors, AC Delco wires, plugs, EGR Valve, Map sensor, IAT sensor, Fuel Pump, Water pump, Air Check Valves, and O2 Sensors.

    I had the PCM programmed by PCM for less.



    The BLM's for left show 160 and right 154(Long Term). However, the (Short term) reads for both the left and right show 127-133. So why would it make the BLM's for Long Term be 160 and 154.
    Could this be the way Bryan has the PCM Programmed?


    If it was a burn't Valve wouldn't it not have very much power? If it were a head gasket wouldn't it use oil or Antifreeze?


    Thanks Lee!
    Lee Stroud in West Virginia

  • #2
    Originally posted by LeeS97Z28
    Hi Guys!

    If it was a burn't Valve wouldn't it not have very much power?
    correct.

    If it were a head gasket wouldn't it use oil or Antifreeze?

    Maybe not and most likely.

    Seriously, a compression check would rule out a burned valve as well as pointing out if a headgasket were leaking.

    Just a thought, I've seen incorrectly installed heat shields (the metal shield that covers some of the spark plug wire boots) that caused a intermittant misfire condition. That even corresponded with the abnormally high BLMs. The problem was solved by removing the shields and re-installing them with the small protrusions pointing toward the wires and not towrad the plugs. Not saying that it the problem, but it should definately be checked.

    Oil leaking from behind the optispark means the oil control seal is going south. The opti will have to be pulled and new front cover seals installed. While everything is apart, I would suggest doing the opti seal, water pump drive seal and the front crank seal. Heck, I would even do the front cover to block gasket. It beats doing it twice. As far as oil contamination of the opti..... it sure is possible. Having it scanned with enhanced parameters might show a misfire that isn't setting a code. a BLM of 160 means it's pegged at it's maximum.... not good.

    Comment


    • #3
      The front pan seal might just be loose. I always leaked just a little and I finally tighened the first 4 bolts I could get to and it has been dry since.


      LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

      Comment


      • #4
        I just Ordered AutoTap with GM Enhanced Parameters

        Hi Guys!
        Well I can see now that I have a problem and I must have some way of looking at data so I can find out what is wrong with my car.

        Do you guys think I bought the best scanning software for my car?

        What Tests should I do first with it to help you guys help me diagnose the problems.

        What other tools do you think I'll need? Thanks Lee!
        Lee Stroud in West Virginia

        Comment

        Working...
        X