Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Trans cooler

Collapse
X
Collapse
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous Next
  • #1

    Trans cooler

    Hey guys ....

    I can't remember but would a 97 TA M6 have or need a trans cooler. I thought I read that it did have one but can't remember if it was for an auto or manual.

    I am getting ready to order a Fluidyne and need to make sure before I start to order.

    I am also going to need to order a replacement water pump and unfortunately nobody seems to make a higher flowing or lighter weight pump. I figure if I need to replace it maybe I can upgrade..
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The T56 cars have no trans oil cooler from the factory. Does the "Fluidyne" have a circulating pump? How are you connecting it to the case?
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

    Comment

    • #3
      Fred ..

      From what I have been able to gather it is a direct replacement.

      http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product.

      I wasn't planning on adding any coolers I just wanted to be sure that I wasn't missing something.
      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

      Comment

      • #4
        BTW any thoughts on the water pump. I don't want an electric one but perhaps you might have some insight on "better" after market ones if they exist?
        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

        Comment

        • #5
          OK.... I didn't realize the Fluidyne was a radiator. Thought it was an add-on cooler.

          What are you trying to accomplish with the cooling system upgrade? What kind of mod's are you trying to support? I have a Griffin aluminum radiator and use the stock water pump. Bought a new one when I rebuilt the engine.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

          Comment

          • #6
            Well the car (assuming its the water pump) took a dump and redlined the temp guage. I am going to replace the water pump which is why I am looking (if possible) for an upgraded pump ... lower weight .. better flowing ...again if possible. Since in the next year or so I plan on doing the engine (heads, cam, etc. as you helped me understand before) I thought now would be a good time to upgrade. While I have the car apart and since the stock radiator is in and at 114,000 miles I am going to replace it as well and change out the fluid to the green stuff. I also thought now would be a good time to upgrade/replace and be prepared for the future motor changes. Basically trying to think ahead as well as solve the current problem(s).
            97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
            In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

            Comment

            • #7
              Did you go thru tghe process of bleeding it out and see if that's all it was (trapped steam int he heads), or did the seals go bad in the pump and cause antifreeze to leak out, causing it to overheat that way?

              Comment

              • #8
                After I got it home I let it sit for a day. Topped it off with fluids ... gave it time to settle in .... then started the car up.

                From the other times I replaced the thermo I know the fluid sort of gulps ... as it is being pumped/moved around ... then you can go back and add more ... making sure that at some point it comes out the bleeder...

                Well, this time when I started her up no gulp ... nothing ...water level in the radiator never moved .... While I was there watching and I heard this whining sound coming from the alternator/water pump area. Put the old ear close and I seemed to zero in on the pump. I figured that the noise indicates something wrong with the pump and given that no fluid was cycling around that the pump must be the problem.
                97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                Comment

                Previous Next
                Working...
                X