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Possible to change tie rod ends without a front end alignment?

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  • Possible to change tie rod ends without a front end alignment?

    I know supposedly if you mark the threads you can change the tie rod ends without having to do a front end alignment. I have also heard that it is possible to get the tie rod ends back in the exact spot. I was wondering if I could get some feedback, do you think I will need to have a front end alignment done once I change my tie rod ends if I mark the threads?
    1995 Camaro Z28 Convertible.

  • #2
    I've done it by having the car on ramps, not with the wheels unsupported. Be sure to put the steering wheel in the centered position. Marking the threads helps, but sometimes due to the differences in the tie rod manufacturer that may not always work. By carefully rotating the outer tie rods onto the inner rods you can do a trial and error as to whether it bolts back to the spindle. While I've done it before, I would still recommend that the alignment be checked....... that way you can see if it is out rather than simply having an alignment done.

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    • #3
      I would second taking it to an alignment shop. Is it really worth saving $40-$50? You can get the toe close but not exact without the alignment equipment.

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      • #4
        No.

        There is a rule of thumb something like for every 1/8 of a degree out it's like dragging the tire 11 feet without turning for every mile driven.

        I just put on tie rod ends and the new ones were about a 1/4" shorter. If you matched where the nut was before and after the tie rod would have been a 1/4" in per side. That's probably 3/4" at the front of the tire. At that rate a tire might last 1000 miles and be wore out on the outside. Not to mention what it does to the gas mileage. Also it will make the car squirrelly. If one tire looses traction from like a puddle of water it will dart the other way. It was a real adventure driving my car like 5 miles to an alignment shop in the rain.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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        • #5
          I've done it by measuring the length. When I had the alignment checked later, it was perfect. I think I got lucky.
          Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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          • #6
            There are several DIY alignment kits to do it the way Shoebox did it, and I have done it that way also, so if you're careful, it works. The thing you have to know is where you want to align it to begin with. It's usually not zero toe because the friction of the tires & the wear of the front end suspension components sometimes calls for a little toe in because in driving it will open up to zero - the tires want to spread out some. Sometimes for drag racing, they just use zero toe. I have a friend who races a Lola open wheel car, and he does the whole car with string.

            I would like to see the results of taking the same car to several shops and see what they all say about the other guys alignment job - wonder if they would come out the same??? Any of them is still probably better than doing it yourself with no equipment. I probably wouldn't take a chance with expensive tires on there.

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            • #7
              tape measure and a helper is how we do it at my job(we're renting a building at the moment). just make sure u go on the same spot on the backside. just keep going and u'll have it so the wheels are where they are need to be
              2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

              old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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              • #8
                I changed mine without getting it realligned. I got a set from the local GM dealer (with my discount) and their length matched the originals exactly. I simply backed off the backnut a bit, removed the old end, threaded on the new end and locked the backnut back down. I took it for a test drive and it drove perfect. I know I should get it to an alignment shop, but I don't trust *anyone* to touch my car except close friends and family. I have too many cars get screwed up by "mechanics".
                Tracy
                2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                Current Mods:
                SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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