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  • Bad fuel pump?

    Ran the car out of gas last night and after pushing it to the gas station it would not start. Had it towed to my local shop who tells me today that the fuel pump is bad and needs to be replaced. 6 hour job plus the cost of the pump since it is in the tank. I would appreciate your thoughts if this "sounds" right. I was hoping it was just the fuel filter.
    2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
    buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

    SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
    Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

  • #2
    Running the pump dry often kills it. The preferred method to replace is to remove the exhaust, and differential assembly in order to drop the tank and R&R the pump. There are folks that have cut through the floor and fabricated a replacement hatch. While I'm not an advocate of cutting the floor (it's designed that way to shield the interior in the event of fire), others have done it and it works.

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    • #3
      You can change the filter, but I doubt that's the problem. That would be one heckuva blockage to do that after the car had just been running. Usually when fuel pumps go out on our cars, they start the "long cranking" syndrome first. It's rare for them to fail after running out of gas after only one time. Also, when the car runs out of gas, you have to cycle the key 3 times or so for the fuel pressure to build up enough to start the car again since the line is dry.

      If it is the pump, and if you have the mechanical ability, do it yourself. It's a hard job if you drop the tank, but that is the best way to do it. Otherwise, you can follow the "cut big hole in your car" guide that's available online and do it with the tank in the car. A lot of people on here have done that, but I could not bring myself to cut a big gaping hole in my car to change out the pump. Also, go ahead and get a Walbro or some other aftermarket 255 pump and just replace the pump itself. The Walbro is better and cheaper (usually) than the factory one.
      "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

      Comment


      • #4
        I replaced mine with the Walbro 255 pump about two months ago. I did the "cut a big gapping hole" method and was very happy the way it turned out and the time I saved. I ended up getting the instructions to cut the hole somewhere on the net. To seal it, I riveted a hinge on one side and put a latch on the other. I put weatherstripping around the perimeter and it seals very nicely and tightly. Once the carpet it put over it, you would never know.
        Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up and totally worn out, loudly proclaiming......WOW WHAT A RIDE!!!

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        • #5
          Definately possible, especially if you ran the pump on an empty tank for a while (trying to start it). The gasoline is a lubricant and coolant for the fuel pump, so running it dry isnt the best thing for it. If you tried cycling the key multiple times to give it some pressure and it didnt start, then I would say its most likely that the pump died......to make you feel better, it was probably on its way out anyways.


          I cut an access panel in my bird and it was pretty easy. The measurements are on the internet. Just get your torch out and cut away!...... (kidding, of course ) Use a pair of tin snips and a drill and *carefully* work your way around. You can buy a nice billet trap door to bolt in after youre done too.
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

          Comment


          • #6
            I did the access panel replacement too for a 255 Racetronix pump. The hardest parts were getting the fuel lines disconnected and getting the pump & sender back in the tank. After all that, it isn't enough pump for my car - I still need to run off the T-Rex booster pump as well. Cutting the hole, drilling the holes, and making the cover took about an hour. I have some pics of the work...

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            • #7
              i have not done this but i have a link if you want to cut the hole


              http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/

              97 Firebird, 3.8 5 spd

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
                I did the access panel replacement too for a 255 Racetronix pump. The hardest parts were getting the fuel lines disconnected and getting the pump & sender back in the tank. After all that, it isn't enough pump for my car - I still need to run off the T-Rex booster pump as well. Cutting the hole, drilling the holes, and making the cover took about an hour. I have some pics of the work...
                Hmm. Im running a walbro 255 in my car and seems to be enough pump. Im gonna bump it to a 150 shot at the track tommorrow when I hopefully will be trapping 127+ mph. Im expecting the pump to support it.
                96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                Comment


                • #9
                  Kevin,
                  That is exactly how I made mine, LOL!!!
                  Did you sneak over to my house and see how I did it????
                  Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up and totally worn out, loudly proclaiming......WOW WHAT A RIDE!!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It's really not a bad job to do it without carving holes in the floor. Get the rear of the car up on jack stands, Remove the rear wheels, unbolt the brake calipers/lines and hang them out of the way, remove the muffler and tailpipes , disconnect the abs connector, Unbolt the lower control arms, torque arm, panhard rod and swaybar. Then lower the rear end down to the floor with a jack. This gives you plenty of access to drop the heat shield/tank and swap pumps. The shop quoted 6 hours... I've done it in 4 by myself. Their estimates must include lunch and an afternoon Siesta. Of couse it helps to have all the right tools.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe 1320
                      Their estimates must include lunch and an afternoon Siesta. Of couse it helps to have all the right tools.
                      Thanks for the help guys. I decided to have the shop do the swap. I envy the mechanical ability of this board and I commend you guys who have the knowledge to turn the wrenches. I admit to have minimal mechanical experience but you gotta learn sometime right? I just don't feel comfortable changing the fuel pump as a learn as you go repair
                      2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
                      buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

                      SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
                      Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I need your job. Anybody who can afford a "100 billion dollar" fuel pump replacement at the dealer has the job that I need. Yall hiring?
                        "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                          Hmm. Im running a walbro 255 in my car and seems to be enough pump. Im gonna bump it to a 150 shot at the track tommorrow when I hopefully will be trapping 127+ mph. Im expecting the pump to support it.
                          I'm not too sure wat to think about it. I'm gonna do the filter and see if that helps, but I doubt that's it - I think I need a bigger pump. I think my car really uses a lot of fuel with the blower when I smash the gas pedal. My car is similar in power to yours, but don't forget that I am also making the power to turn the blower in addition to the power to probably run in the low 11's if I had traction (slicks), and also I'm probably running richer than you have to with Nos. My stock pump never went out, it was just not enough for the fuel I need, and the Racetronix pump is better, but still pressure drops off some if I floor it from a stop, less noticeable from a roll. I'm using 42# injectors at stock fuel pressure - What are you running?

                          PS. Just installed a methanol/water injection kit and can't wait to see what that does for me. Hoping to run the stock timing at 7# boost. We'll see

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MN6WS6
                            I need your job. Anybody who can afford a "100 billion dollar" fuel pump replacement at the dealer has the job that I need. Yall hiring?
                            ???huh??? Well luckly it cost a lot less than that. Plus I already admitted I don't have the skills to do it myself. Not that I could readily afford it either. Could you please explain your point?
                            2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
                            buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

                            SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
                            Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              "100 billion dollars" is the term used by Dr. Evil in the Austin Powers series. Basically, what I was saying is that having the fuel pump done at a dealer is VERY expensive, cost preventative in my case. Whether or not I could do it myself, I still would not pay for a dealer to do it because they WAY overcharge for their work. I would talk with some of my local f-body brethren, offer them $100 and a 6 pack, and hand them tools. Then you could learn how to work on your car and save yourself a lot of money over the ownership life of the car. The dealer is gonna stick it to you with the time it takes to do it, the part prices, and whatever else they can tag onto it and make you think you need it. So basically, you'll pay at least double, if not triple what it would cost you to buy the parts online and have some f-body bro's help you do it. I'm just trying to help you save some money and learn how to work on your car in the process.

                              There's two things that are the hardest things to do on any car in the world, and 2 of the 3 are on an LT1 f-body. #1 changing plugs and wires. #2 changing the fuel pump by dropping the tank. #3 is putting a radio and 2 speakers in a 1976 Datsun 510, but we won't even go there on that one
                              "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                              Comment

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