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  • Oil Change Advice

    Hey guys,

    I have a question for ya... How often do you REALLY need to get your oil changed on these new cars? I've been told that you can just wait till the "change oil" light comes on, or do it every 3k... What do you all suggest? I do it every 3k, but I'm starting to think maybe I'm wasting my money? HOw fast does Oil really break down (non-synthetic). Would it matter if I did them every 4k instead of every 3k? Would this lead to any real major problems? If some tech guys could help me out, that would be great.

    Jeff
    One SWEET 02 GAGT w/ tons of mods!

  • #2
    I'm sure there have been many studies done on this, but from what I've heard, regular old "dino" oil in a daily driven car has already lost some of it's lubricating abilities at 2500 miles. Now sense of us run that stuff, we don't have to worry about it, because anybody who would stick Autozone or Advance Auto Parts brand oil in there f-body should be drawn and quartered

    The bottom line is this: it's your car, you do what you want. I use Valvoline full synthetic in my car, and it comes out every 3000 miles, period, end of discussion. I run Shell Rotella full synthetic in my bike, and it comes out every 3000 miles, period, end of discussion. I personally will not risk my engines on cheap oil, or oil with what I consider to be too many miles. I would rather recycle my old oil a little earlier than is necessary than take a chance in harming something that requires a complete teardown of the motor.
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #3
      Originally posted by MN6WS6
      . I use Valvoline full synthetic in my car, and it comes out every 3000 miles, period, end of discussion. I run Shell Rotella full synthetic in my bike, and it comes out every 3000 miles, period, end of discussion. I personally will not risk my engines on cheap oil, or oil with what I consider to be too many miles. I would rather recycle my old oil a little earlier than is necessary than take a chance in harming something that requires a complete teardown of the motor.
      Yup..... Mobil 1 synthetic changed every 3000 miles. When I tore it apart to do head gaskets at 120K miles, the factory crosshatch hone was still plainly visible. I mean it looked like there was zero wear. If that doesn't sell you, nothing will.

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      • #4
        Yeah, these new cars and oils claim you can go longer than 3000 miles, but why risk it? Oil changes are a lot cheaper than engine repairs. With the short distances I drive now that's only 3 or 4 changes a year, cheap insurance in my book. On my higher mileage cars, I'll pull a sample and have it checked once a year. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what_..._analysis.html I have yet to have an engine fail from internal wear. My van has 212000 miles on it, and my Civic, that I no longer drive, has 390380 miles on it and the engine still runs well. Yup, I'm changing the Mobil 1 in the Camaro every 3000 miles!

        '87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
        '88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
        Bruce, μολων λαβέ

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        • #5
          I do mobil 1 15w 50 synthetic once a month.
          -Nick-
          95 A4 Z28

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 95z28
            I do mobil 1 15w 50 synthetic once a month.
            5w 50!!!!!!!!

            thats supposed to be a no no on these motors........

            The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

            2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

            Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
            Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
            sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by wolfman
              5w 50!!!!!!!!

              thats supposed to be a no no on these motors........
              Especially once a month, what a waste. Unless you're putting at least 2000 miles on that car a month.

              Why aren't you running fully synthetic? Or at least a synthetic blend? I run Mobil 1 5w30 every 3000 miles, sometimes sooner, never later. Depends on the cash flow at the time. I'm sure the Mobil 1 will last more than 3K, but buildup does start to form in those few thousand miles, I'd rather wash it out.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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              • #8
                15, not 5. Idk i change it all the time and then add that lucas treatment to it . . . the car gets driven alot compared to most people.

                oil treatment is a waste of money, does nothing.

                5w30 mobil 1. thats all you need.

                and "15" is worse ... 5 is what you need. and 50!...no no no
                -Nick-
                95 A4 Z28

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                • #9
                  Dude, you should NOT be running 15w anything in our motors, and CERTAINLY not a 15w-50! That oil is WAY too thick. I run 5-30 in mine, 10-30 in my 98 Astro with 270,000 miles even though it calls for 5-30, and won't go any higher. 15 is too thick to get in between the tight tolerances of our motors. You are taking a serious risk of ring failure. You need to drop down.
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                  • #10
                    Then people say 'Oh race cars use that oil all the time!" Well our street cars don't get the prolonged high RPM use on the street as it does the majority of the time on the track. They usually let the cars warm up any way on the track.


                    LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-BP, GMPP 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, Adj. tierod, BMR tower brace, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 GY F1 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

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                    • #11
                      I change the Mobil 1 every 2500 miles on the T/A. I don't drive it much, so that's about every 4 or 5 months. I use Castrol Syntec in the Bravada. The previous owner used nothing but Syntec, so I continue to. I prefer Mobil 1, and I'm sure switching over would have little to no effect, but I have OCD's with stuff like that. It doesn't really matter. It gets changed every 2500 as well.
                      SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
                      SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
                      17K Miles

                      2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
                      Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth

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                      • #12
                        The first number is the viscous properties when cold, and the second number is the viscous properties when hot. The 15 quality is OK on an LT1, however there is a problem with the 50 end of that equation. That is too thick to properly get inside of the oiling orifice on our hydraulic lifters. You may not audibly hear it, but I'll be willing to bet your lifters are taking a long time to "pump up" and therefore create a proper lash between the valve stem and rocker. Not good. And like MN6WS6 mentioned, not good for your rings and bearing tolerances as well.

                        Some of you may have read my recent post about "Getting my Bike". The guy I bought the bike from headed up the engine shop up at Rousch Engineering. He says they did a bunch of testing with the IRL and NASCAR engines, and hands down the Mobil 1 came out on top. Even with the Indy motors....and you can just imagine how hard the Indy motors are on oil.

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                        • #13
                          i use Q high-horsepower change it once a year with a k&n filter. but then AGAIN i only put 1000mi a year on the toy.

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                          • #14
                            I use Royal Purple in the Bird and change it twice a year weather it needs it or not (once when she goes into hibernation and again when she hits the roads in spring)
                            2004 800 miles
                            2005 so far 395 miles


                            I think I need to get the Bird out more
                            1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
                            1 of 463
                            LT4 knock module
                            D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
                            strut tower brace
                            SLP fan switch
                            160* t/stat
                            Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
                            DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs


                            Pictures Here

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by fastTA
                              The first number is the viscous properties when cold, and the second number is the viscous properties when hot. The 15 quality is OK on an LT1, however there is a problem with the 50 end of that equation. That is too thick to properly get inside of the oiling orifice on our hydraulic lifters. You may not audibly hear it, but I'll be willing to bet your lifters are taking a long time to "pump up" and therefore create a proper lash between the valve stem and rocker. Not good. And like MN6WS6 mentioned, not good for your rings and bearing tolerances as well.

                              Some of you may have read my recent post about "Getting my Bike". The guy I bought the bike from headed up the engine shop up at Rousch Engineering. He says they did a bunch of testing with the IRL and NASCAR engines, and hands down the Mobil 1 came out on top. Even with the Indy motors....and you can just imagine how hard the Indy motors are on oil.

                              could that explain the valvetrain noises i always hear?
                              -Nick-
                              95 A4 Z28

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