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  • #1

    Water pump help

    Hey guys,

    Started taking apart the car to replace the thermo, water pump and radiator.

    I managed to get as far as the one bolt/nut in the middle on the right. Well the nut came off and the threaded bolt is still in there.... Any suggestions on getting it out? Do I need to hit it with some penetrating stuff??

    Also any general suggestion would be helpful.

    thanks ..
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Does the pump move at all or is it locked on there. I remember with mine there were six bolts/nuts total holding the pump on. I remember taking the AIR pump emission assembly out to get a better look at all the bolts. After that a simple tap witht he rubber mallet made it come right off. Just some of my input.
    1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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    • #3
      i suppose your talking about the bolt on the water pump, if the shank ( the threaded portion) is sticking out you could shoot it with some penetrating oil and use some vise-grips. this works most of the time. if the shank is not sticking out your other option is to drill a small hole in the center of the broken off bolt and get the appropriate ez-out which fits the drill bit you used. just be careful not to drill too big or off center cause youll mess up the threads that the new bolt needs to go into.

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      • #4
        thanks guys .. I think the combination of what you all said will help.

        Of the six that hold the pump, its the only one that has a threaded bolt with a nut. The nut came off no problem but now the threaded bolt is still sitting in there. I will try the penetrating vice grip first and if not then pull the smog pump off and work it better. There is movement so I figure once I resolve this it will come right off.
        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

        Comment

        • #5
          The threaded bolt has a nut on the backside of the pump also I believe, I could be wrong though.
          1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by blackthunder50
            The threaded bolt has a nut on the backside of the pump also I believe, I could be wrong though.
            I was just going to say the same thing. It is *not* a stud. There are not any studs holding on our water pumps. It is a bolt with another threaded nub coming off the head.

            Look at it more closely. remove the air pump bracket and you will see the head of the bolt.
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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            • #7
              OK guys ..thanks .. sounds like the ticket is tacking the pump that is piggybacking the threaded stud. I hope to have all three swapped out this weekend.
              97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
              In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

              Comment

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