header flange evenness

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I recall reading a while back to make sure your header flanges are even or sanding them down for a perfect flat surface. It sounded like a good idea, but thought, am I going to ruin the ceramic coating if I do? It looks like I will, and end up chipping it or screwing it up. The flanges are pretty smooth and even, but there's a few tiny grooves and pits. It doesn't look like it'll show up as a leak after install, but I'm not quite sure.


Thanks in advance for any advice.

[RangerBob]

I would check them for flatness and take them to a machine shop if they are not flat. Otherwise leave them alone.

BTW: What brand did you get and how much $ were they?

[Joe 1320]

Craig, as long as the flanges aren't physically warped they will be fine. Small scratches and pits are almost impossible to eliminate and the gasket will seal minor irregularities like that. you should be good to go.

[Injuneer]

My AS&M's are "used".... the guy that bought them originally checked them with a straight edge and found the flanged needed to be milled. He had them done, and now 7 years and 2 cars later there is no evidence that milling the flanges damaged the coating. They are starting to show signs of rust where the primaries meet the flange, and where there is some weld spatter, but after 7 years of use I don't think they are that bad. There's even one spot on #7 runner where an EGT bung was welded on after the coating was done, and even that area isn't rusted too badly.

You can sort of see the condition in this shot, which is only about 2 months ago:

[Injuneer]

The flange is a little clearer in this shot, and no rust:



Don't worry about pits and scratches.... they are not a problem. Its making sure that if you put a straight edge across the full length of the flange that there are no gaps.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Thanks for your guys' advice. I took a straight edge and found that the driver's side was off at most by about 1/32".


Then I did the same to the passenger's side. I found one flange to be down by 1/16", which is a bit more noticeable.


Is 1/16" enough to worry about? Or is that about within "tolerance"? I'm using Fel-pro 1406s.

[F-Body183]

You should be good to go considering when you bolt it up it will even itself out.

[Z Ya Later]

I would check them for flatness and take them to a machine shop if they are not flat. Otherwise leave them alone.

BTW: What brand did you get and how much $ were they?

Since nobody seems to love ya Ranger, I'll reply to ya . They're SLP coated shorties. Craig'll have to tell you the price, as I have no idea lol.

Craig, did you just not take a pic of it or was there no Y-pipe?? Also, when do I shop up to sacrifice my skin, knuckles and blood upon the alter of car-modding? lol Still sticking with Sun. or are we getting a little anxious?

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Those look like they'll pull up OK - they're all on the same plane from what I can see in the photos. Where you run into problems is when they are twisted at different angles to eachother like mine were.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

OK, thanks. I'm glad they don't need anymore work.

RangerBob, I'm sorry...I somehow missed your question Just as Steve said, they're SLPs. I paid $795 from Summit. It took almost 2 months to get here, but at least I finally got them. And of course, the price goes up with other stuff. The installation kit was almost $100. I only needed it for the EGR extension tube and y-pipe donut gaskets. The Felpro 1406s were $16, Carsound 3" direct-fit cat was $130, Iridium plugs were $50, wires were $50, 3' firesleeve was $25, new O2 sensors $100, bolts about $30. So total was just under $1300 minus the cat to y-pipe weld.

Kevin, I've been meaning to ask you...since you have the '94-'95 headers...did you need O2 extensions? Thanks bud

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Whoops, I'm a moron...forgot to reply to your question Steve. Of course, everything arrived in 1 package, y-pipe and all.
Remember, I can't install anything before Saturday night...have that "event" that evening. But as long as we don't break a header bolt removing the old system, I think it shouldn't be too bad.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

You will need one for the driver's side. I extended my wires on the sensor just like you're not supposed to do, and it worked, but I don't recommend it - I was in a bind and didn't know they even made and extender harness, and I also didn't think I could get to the wiring harness to extend it, so I did the sensor. I did the supercharger, plugs, wires & and valve springs at the same time as headers, so I had my hands full for a few weeks of hard work. Add bandaids and antiseptic to your list of supplies - you'll see what I mean later after you are almost done with the job. Also be careful with your oil dipstick and pull it straight out cause if there's even a little bend in it where it goes into the block, you will have a very difficult time getting it in there if at all. You might get a buddy to help you with the dipstick - one guy above guiding it into the block and another guy from the top to bend it to clear the headers. You might want a few fiberglass fire sleeves for a few of the plugs. Also be careful with the bundle of wires on the passenger side of the engine near the dipstick which contain the knock sensor wire - make sure there is some protection fronm the headers.

[Z Ya Later]

Whoops, I'm a moron...forgot to reply to your question Steve. Of course, everything arrived in 1 package, y-pipe and all.
Remember, I can't install anything before Saturday night...have that "event" that evening. But as long as we don't break a header bolt removing the old system, I think it shouldn't be too bad.

So, Sat. afternoon I should bid my hands farwell for a little bit? lol

I'll be there Sat. night, just lemme know what time