I blew my motor in a flood over the weekend and I decided that I'm going to change the clutch while i have it apart. I was just wondering if anyone has any advice on which brand to use. I read somewhere that the Spec stage 3 clutch is great for street/strip use. Also, any input on the ls1 hot cam or ls6 cam from GMPP. Which is better for a daily driver in terms of idle quality and driveability and are any computer mods needed? And does anyone know of any shorty headers that will bolt up to stock Y pipe With cats, Prefferably ceramic coated. Any input is gladly welcomed. thanks, Kenny
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LOUD2000T/A
'00 Trans Am M6, K&N filter, Airbox Lid, F.A.S.T. LS-X Intake, Stainlessworks offroad y-pipe, Loudmouth catback, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hypertech programming, 17" Torque Thrust II wheels, 12.97@113; '87 Monte Carlo SS; '91 Sonoma V6 4x4. -
I like my stage 3 SPEC. Customer service is great. I shattered a stage 3 disk and they replaced it for free. Its a tough clutch to drive around town with, but its doable. If youre doing a lot of street driving expect it to wear out quick. I've got about 20k miles on mine and it needs to be relined.....but thats the compromise. It GRABS hards but wears quick and is tough to handle in stop and go traffic.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
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^^What he said^^
Very hard grabbing clutch, I just finished my install yesterday. I talked to the guy at SPEC before I bought it, and asked about how long it lasts because it's a puck clutch. He said they had a daily driver LT1 with 30,000 miles on it, and about 100 passes at the track and it still grabs great. Maybe he was lying, maybe he wasn't. Depends on how much power you wanna make. If you plan on making 450-500, the Stage 2 will be fine, and is very streetable (stock like take-offs with nicer pedal feel and more grip).
If you want over 500 HP I would get the S3.
Is insurance helping you pay for it? As flood damage or anything?97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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The insurance company is paying for it but they are getting me a junk yard motor. They told me the engine only has about 15,000 miles on it which is better than my 55,000 i guess. it will be going in the car stock save for a few bolt-ons (off road y-pipe and catback, airbox lid & k&n, possibly headers) so it will not be making much more horsepower than stock. You say the stage 2 clutch is good for a daily driver, but how is it on the track. My stock clutch would slip when i tried to power shift.Originally posted by raroZ28LOUD2000T/A
'00 Trans Am M6, K&N filter, Airbox Lid, F.A.S.T. LS-X Intake, Stainlessworks offroad y-pipe, Loudmouth catback, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hypertech programming, 17" Torque Thrust II wheels, 12.97@113; '87 Monte Carlo SS; '91 Sonoma V6 4x4.Comment
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The stage 2 feels stock, with slightly stiffer, better pedal feel. It grabs very nice. It's much better material than stock and will not slip. Depends on how much power you're making. If you're making 480+ I wouldn't go with it. If you never plan on making over 450 HP you'll be fine with it. Mine has never slipped.97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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i have eldelbrock shorty ceramic headers that i dont need... n want to get rid of them...1967 Camaro "Project"
1972 Chevelle "454"
1979 Trans Am "Project Ls-1"Comment
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How much $$? and do they bolt up to stock 4th gen Y-pipe? I have an offroad y-pipe that fits with stock manifolds and i really don't want to buy another one if i don't have to. Please P.M. me and let me know.Originally posted by RocKin1967LOUD2000T/A
'00 Trans Am M6, K&N filter, Airbox Lid, F.A.S.T. LS-X Intake, Stainlessworks offroad y-pipe, Loudmouth catback, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hypertech programming, 17" Torque Thrust II wheels, 12.97@113; '87 Monte Carlo SS; '91 Sonoma V6 4x4.Comment
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Just brought this post back to light to mention... After putting a couple hundred miles on my SPEC S3, it is totally different. It is NOT half as hard to drive as it was before. It would chatter like crazy, like it wanted to be in or out, now it's very smooth taking off. And it's not just that I got used to it. I'm happier than ever with it now.
97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM
01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines
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