Need some advice from pro's

[Steel2686]

I didn't know what Quaker State was made up that causes it's problems, so my anti-Quaker State stance is because I have seen firsthand what kind of damage it can cause. <80,000 mile Ford 302 that had valvetrain so caked in crud that there were molds of the rocker arms in the sludge stuck on the valve covers. Also, so much oil was caked in there that it blocked passages, causing the front of the crankshaft just aft of cylinders one and two to BREAK IN HALF and took out the ENTIRE FRONT MAIN with it, because it was causing the oil to back out of the fill tube and the sump to become dry leaving the crank exposed with no oil.

Part of the problem is that blue oval on the front. D&R

On a serious note - ABSOLUTELY switch to Mobil 1. I've been running Mobil 1 since the mid 90's. Never had an oil-related problem with any of my cars. In 1993, I bought my first brand new car. It was a Lumina Z34. It had the doomed 3.4 Twin-Dual Cam engine. Four cams, 24 valves, and a whole lot of problems. One problem it had since new was a very loud valve knock problem which GM assured me several times, is "normal" for those engines due to the amount of cams and valves. I switched to Mobil 1 after 40,000 miles and the knock completely stopped. The engine ran much smoother also. I was sold on Mobil 1 from that day forward.

[blackthunder50]

Just got back from the store and I m ready to start converting to synthetic oil. I bought Mobil 1 5w-30 oil that is said to run clean up to 7500 miles, now this is the only regular mobil oil I could find, and I bought 1 quart of mobile 1 synthetic to blend (4-10). I plan on changing every 3000 miles, so do you guys think its ok to run the regular mobil 1 (7500 mile oil) with the full synthetic??