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Sputtering at higher RPM's

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  • #1

    Sputtering at higher RPM's

    I was driving my car to work this morning when I noticed that at higher RPM's, my car started to sputter and actually backfired a couple of times. I wanted to test it out, and I gave it another WOT run. The next one wasn't as bad as the first initial one, but I noticed that at about 5 grand and more, she sputters and will backfire. Anything less than that, and you never would know anything was wrong. There also isn't a power loss until I reach those higher RPM's, as well as no SES light.

    When I get home, she's going up on some ramps and I'm gonna check my plugs, wires, as well as some other random things. I know my opti has been going south for a while now, could this be caused by the opti?

    Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Chris
    black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come
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  • #2
    Originally posted by 95TransAm

    I know my opti has been going south for a while now, could this be caused by the opti?
    Uh huh............


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    • #3
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      Uh huh............
      Pretty much what I figured. My money situation has had me hold out on that as long as it was humanly possible...looks like I have a nice excuse to get a new one now. I'll look at it as a blessing in disguise

      Thanks a bunch Joe
      black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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      • #4
        2 things:

        1. opti

        2. bad gas

        Is your car idling rough?
        Hercules



        2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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        • #5
          Originally posted by DJ Taso
          2 things:

          1. opti

          2. bad gas

          Is your car idling rough?
          My car is idling perfectly.

          I had no idea anything was even wrong until right before I reached work (about 30 mins. of driving). I decided to give it a WOT run. It was then (5 grand and over) when I first realized something was wrong.
          black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

          Comment

          • #6
            If its not a loose plug wire its the opti-crapper.
            1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
            Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
            Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by 95TransAm
              I was driving my car to work this morning when I noticed that at higher RPM's, my car started to sputter and actually backfired a couple of times. I wanted to test it out, and I gave it another WOT run. The next one wasn't as bad as the first initial one, but I noticed that at about 5 grand and more, she sputters and will backfire. Anything less than that, and you never would know anything was wrong. There also isn't a power loss until I reach those higher RPM's, as well as no SES light.

              When I get home, she's going up on some ramps and I'm gonna check my plugs, wires, as well as some other random things. I know my opti has been going south for a while now, could this be caused by the opti?

              Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

              Thanks
              Chris
              How many miles are on your T/A?


              SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

              Comment

              • #8
                1.fuel filter

                2. when you get to higher rpms your fuel pump could be taking a dump on ya
                1994 firebird formula

                no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jeanius
                  How many miles are on your T/A?
                  117,7xx miles.

                  She's just sitting in the garage for the next couple weeks...it's time to buy some restoration parts along with possibly a new toy or two

                  All I know is in 2 1/2 weeks, she's gonna be running better than she ever has since I've had her
                  black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    While you are doing the optispark, plan on plugs and wires too. While everything is apart, you should replace all the oil control seals in the front cover:

                    10317886 water pump drive seal $3.98
                    12552428 opti drive seal $3.88
                    12553792 o ring for water pump shaft (need 2) .70
                    12554314 front crank seal $14.50

                    If not, you'll be pulling things apart to do it again.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Joe 1320
                      While you are doing the optispark, plan on plugs and wires too. While everything is apart, you should replace all the oil control seals in the front cover:

                      10317886 water pump drive seal $3.98
                      12552428 opti drive seal $3.88
                      12553792 o ring for water pump shaft (need 2) .70
                      12554314 front crank seal $14.50

                      If not, you'll be pulling things apart to do it again.
                      Already have the plugs and wires ready to go I figured that I should replace those seals as well, and in fact was going to post about it once I took a look at my manual to make sure I didn't forget anything. Looks like you beat me to the punch Thanks for the part numbers, prices, and the tip as well. If there's anything else you would recommend, please put it out there. Once I start doing this, I want to knock off as many little things as I can without extensively digging in.

                      Thanks again
                      black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                      Comment

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