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NFB: How to Test an A.I.R. Pump once removed from vehicle?

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  • NFB: How to Test an A.I.R. Pump once removed from vehicle?

    I really do not want to shell out $500 for a new AIR Pump for my commuter car ('96 Passat GLX Wagon) so how can I test the Pump after removing it from the engine. It has a very simple two prong electrical connection so I hooked up wires to each, spliced them together and connected the single wire to the Positive cable of my battery charger. I grounded the negative cable and then plugged it in but no sounds from the Pump, appears to be dead. Will this method work or do I have to actually use a Battery? Or should I run a separate wire from the Pump to ground and the other to power instead of both to power? Thanks guys, just trying to save some $$.

    Eric 1997 Camaro SS LT4 #093 of 106

  • #2
    Richard Harvey Jr.
    '94 T/A LT1 (stock) - SOLD

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply, but pump fired to life once I grounded it properly. Some advice to any future VW owners, don't do it. To gain access to the AIR Pump I had a choice of either removing the Upper & Lower Intake manifolds, fuel rail, spark plugs, and working in antifreeze or physically removing the entire front bumper cover, radiator support, headlights, grille, and alternator just to get the car to pass CT Emissions so I elected the later. Hope everything still works when completed, I'll have to take a pic before I'm done.

      Later,
      Eric

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      • #4
        typical vw. we had to pull the front off of a passat(bout a 2000) to do a timing belt. and my auto body friend works at danbury vw. and he says thats how they work on vws. everything is over complicated
        2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

        old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Eric 97LT4SS
          Thanks for the reply, but pump fired to life once I grounded it properly. Some advice to any future VW owners, don't do it. To gain access to the AIR Pump I had a choice of either removing the Upper & Lower Intake manifolds, fuel rail, spark plugs, and working in antifreeze or physically removing the entire front bumper cover, radiator support, headlights, grille, and alternator just to get the car to pass CT Emissions so I elected the later. Hope everything still works when completed, I'll have to take a pic before I'm done.

          Later,
          Eric
          Before putting it all back together I'd check the wires that run to it to make sure they're getting juice to it. Also if your talking about a sniffer test you could probably get by it without a working air pump as long as you got the cats nice and hot the whole point of an air pump is to run for the first few minutes when you start your vehicle to push oxgyen into the cats which helps them heat up quicker but if you'd run your vehicle and get them nice and hot you should be fine.
          1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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          • #6
            physically removing the entire front bumper cover
            I did my passat 1.8T timing belt and thats what I had to do. The glx v6 looks like a bigger pain in the a$$.
            96 Camaro Z28/A4,Vortech elbow,Moroso CAI,Flowmaster.Addco PHR,LCA,160* Stat,pcmforless,1LE Driveshaft,1LE A/C delete pulley,1LE Front sway bar,Strut brace,sub frames, LT4 knock module,255 lph pump,Cutout,

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