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  • Serpentine Belt

    Does a squeaky serpentine drivebelt indicate it's time for a replacement? The Haynes manual makes it look like an easy job and I am unsure if it was ever replaced. A friend of mine recommended "belt dressing" as an alternate to replacing. It does not look cracked or dried out.

    Where to buy and any additional help is as always.....appreciated.
    2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
    buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

    SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
    Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

  • #2
    Originally posted by tclelland
    Does a squeaky serpentine drivebelt indicate it's time for a replacement? The Haynes manual makes it look like an easy job and I am unsure if it was ever replaced. A friend of mine recommended "belt dressing" as an alternate to replacing. It does not look cracked or dried out.

    Where to buy and any additional help is as always.....appreciated.
    Belt dressing sucks.

    Try replacing the belt. If it still squeeks you have an extra good belt. look at the idler pulley and other accessories for the source of the noise.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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    • #3
      Originally posted by tclelland
      Does a squeaky serpentine drivebelt indicate it's time for a replacement? The Haynes manual makes it look like an easy job and I am unsure if it was ever replaced. A friend of mine recommended "belt dressing" as an alternate to replacing. It does not look cracked or dried out.

      Where to buy and any additional help is as always.....appreciated.
      I had a squeeky belt about 1 month ago. I tried the belt dressing stuff, and it worked for 2 days, and then the squeek came back.

      Next I replaced a belt with help from a buddy... ( did that in like 2 minutes ).... and the squeek is gone! Since you and I both have a 97 ... and the squeeks occured around the same time... sounds like you need a new one.

      If you replace the belt, and still have a squeek, the belt tensioner may be going bad.... I'll bet 5 bucks though your belt is just due for replacing.
      Autozone has em for around 10 bucks I think.
      1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
      370 RWHP / 352 TQ
      CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

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      • #4
        Don't ever bother with belt dressing.

        Go to Autozone and get a Goodyear Gatorback belt.
        Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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        • #5
          Did the Gatorback belt on my 97 about a 5 min job and the squeek is gone
          1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
          1 of 463
          LT4 knock module
          D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
          strut tower brace
          SLP fan switch
          160* t/stat
          Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
          DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs


          Pictures Here

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          • #6
            never use belt dressing on a serpentine belt. It was intended for the older V style arrangement. One other note, mine used to squeal on every WOT gear change ever since new. The dealer couldn't figure it out either. A new belt didn't even solve the problem. Evidently my automatic was changing gears so quick that the belt had a hard time slowing the accessories on a shift. The only thing that worked was an underdrive pulley set with it's dedicated belt. The accessories were slowed to begin with and the belt had an easier time. Just threw that out there just in case.

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            • #7
              A belt change is easy, and I'm not that experienced in car maintenance. Your first time it should take you no longer than 30 minutes....and that includes getting the tools and the car on ramps. The instructions are on your radiator cover and the tensioner uses a spring. You just put your socket on the tensioner rotate it away and pull the belt off. At about $15 for a belt, the dressing wouldn't be worth it, even if it did work.
              Joe K.
              '11 BMW 328i
              '10 Matrix S AWD
              Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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              • #8
                While you are under the front end of the car to change the belt, look at the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. I've seen a few posts over the last 6 months or so of people experiencing failure of the rubber ring that holds the inner and outer parts of the damper together. The rubber dries out and starts to crack. It isn't likely to happen, but its worth taking a look. While the belt is off the crank pulley, grab the edge of the pulley and see if it wobbles at all.

                I'm alos starting to see posts regarding worn out idler pullies.

                The earliest 4th Gens are now approaching 13 years old. Age will be taking its toll on some of these parts.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Injuneer

                  I'm alos starting to see posts regarding worn out idler pullies.

                  The earliest 4th Gens are now approaching 13 years old. Age will be taking its toll on some of these parts.
                  As a matter of fact, just replaced my tensioner and pulley about 300 miles ago. It was starting to squawk.

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                  • #10
                    The belt is very easy to change. I didn't even use ramps. I just used a 12mm or 14mm ratchet. I can't remember which it is. Put it on the tensioner pulley under the car, turn it to loosen the belt, take the belt off, put the new one on just as easy. Takes about 2 minutes start to finish.
                    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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                    • #11
                      Thanks guys! Squeak gone. Gatorback from Autozone for $17.00 and ten minutes later I'm back in play. Game on!!!!
                      2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
                      buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

                      SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
                      Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

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