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Horsepower : Best bang for not much $$ ?

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  • Horsepower : Best bang for not much $$ ?

    I'm looking to start under the hood soon..... after I get the appearance wrapped up.... so, I'm looking for ideas.

    I don't want to spend a fortune, but I'd like to get the most bang for the buck. Any suggestions?

    Thanks ahead of time!
    1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
    370 RWHP / 352 TQ
    CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

  • #2
    Nitrous................
    Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

    Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

    Comment


    • #3
      +1 for nitrous. Cheapest initial cost, only have to refill the bottle. Power only when you need it, no affect on gas mileage.
      "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Jay 02 TA ws6
        Nitrous................
        I guess nitrous just worries me... I don't want to tear up the engine, gears, etc....

        of course, I don't know much about the effects of nitrous ... so maybe someone could fill me in, or point me to a good link.
        1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
        370 RWHP / 352 TQ
        CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

        Comment


        • #5
          You can either do a nitrous search on here, or PM Injuneer. He is the nitrous guru, and everything I would tell you about it is the same thing he would, except he has a lot more experience with it. He used to run a dry kit just like mine on his car for a while, and when he went into the motor to build it, you could still see crosshatching on the cylinder walls. Nitrous problems are not the fault of the nitrous, but the fault of the installer and the user. Properly tuned nitrous systems with the correct safety features installed will not hurt your car.
          "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

          Comment


          • #6
            may not be a power upgrade but have you ever thought of changing your gear ratio? Everyone that I have ever talked to that owns an F-body, of ANY of the 35 years they were made, has sworn that they really wake up the car

            standard gear ration change should cost no more than $600 tops for parts and install tops

            I plan to go this route... along with a 12-bolt (after I meet reality and pay off the car!)
            Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

            2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
            Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
            pics and info

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            • #7
              The 4.10 gears was the first performance mod I made and definitely gives you the most performance for the buck.

              With the 6M, the 4.10's really wake up the car, a definite noticeable difference.

              Kevin Villier 2002 SS #186 - 6M with Hurst and "short-stick", T-Tops, navy blue, chrome SS wheels, Bilstein suspension, SS grill, BMR STB, chrome-moly panhard rod and LCA's, SLP SFC's, PPC LT's w/ RT hi-flo cats and hi-flo Y, TEA Stage 1.5 5.3L heads, TR224 cam, ASP pulley, SLP loudmouth, Direct-Flo lid, Holley Power-Shot filter, Mallory polished MAF ends, 4.10 gears.

              Louisville, KY

              SSOA F02-0186
              KY F-Bodies Unlimited

              Comment


              • #8
                Although I haven't changed mine, I had a buddy who swapped in 4.10's, and he was very happy with the results
                '99 SS, #1392 Onyx Black/Neutral leather; M6; T-Tops; SLP Options: Perf. Exhaust; Key Fobs; Plaque

                Mods.; SLP L/T's; SLP Y-Pipe; Random Tech High-Flow Cats; SLP Loudmouth; PRO 5.O w/ Lou's Short Stick; MTI Airlid w/ K&N; Hotchkiss STB; OPTIMA Red Top; Chrome ZR1's

                Comment


                • #9
                  Except nitrous, Headers and gears are next in line.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Headers and a new Y, and gears. You would definately feel a difference.
                    -Dan

                    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

                    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think we all could agree that gears help the situation, but putting money in the stock 10 bolt is like peeing in the wind. The rear is not going to last, especially if you plan on modding much, which it sounds like you are. I would stick with what I had, and spend the money on more power until the rearend pukes it guts. I've had nitrous on my car for 4 years now, still on the same rearend (broke my original one on motor). Long tubes and y-pipe will cost about the same as nitrous, and you will get MAYBE 30 HP gain whereas nitrous, even on a bone stock motor, can get you 125-150 shot all day long, 175 peak.

                      All I can say is this. If you duplicated my nitrous setup, with all of it's safety and convenience features, you MIGHT have $1,000 invested at retail price. My car, 1996 WS6 Formula with K&N, flowmaster muffler, and the nitrous kit (total retail value of about $1200 in mods) ran 12.36 in the 1/4. You aren't going to run that number with headers and gears.
                      "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MN6WS6
                        Long tubes and y-pipe will cost about the same as nitrous, and you will get MAYBE 30 HP gain whereas nitrous, even on a bone stock motor, can get you 125-150 shot all day long, 175 peak.

                        All I can say is this. If you duplicated my nitrous setup, with all of it's safety and convenience features, you MIGHT have $1,000 invested at retail price. My car, 1996 WS6 Formula with K&N, flowmaster muffler, and the nitrous kit (total retail value of about $1200 in mods) ran 12.36 in the 1/4. You aren't going to run that number with headers and gears.
                        True...... but keep in mind that nitrous is an on demand power adder only. An exhaust would add effeciency in cruising mpg, add HP and increases in sound quality. Not everything is a simple WOT gain. This is something that can be enjoyed daily and without having to refill a bottle or internal damage. Some things cannot be measured only in dragstrip figures.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          And, since nobody else has said it, I might as well. Upgrading your suspension to handle this HP you want is also something you should consider. LCAs with relo brackets and a new panhard should be the first on the list. SFCs are not a bad idea either. No use in having the power if you can't control it
                          Steve
                          79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                          87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                          93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                          http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Joe 1320
                            True...... but keep in mind that nitrous is an on demand power adder only. An exhaust would add effeciency in cruising mpg, add HP and increases in sound quality. Not everything is a simple WOT gain. This is something that can be enjoyed daily and without having to refill a bottle or internal damage. Some things cannot be measured only in dragstrip figures.
                            Thats kind of what i was getting at. I agree that nitrous is the best overall solution if all you want is refillable power at the track. But if you want to get an increase in sound/ performance that can be felt/ enjoyed all the time there are other things that need to be considered as joe has stated.

                            Also suspension is a must to help stick that power to the ground whats you get everything set up.
                            -Dan

                            1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

                            Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I am in the process of installing a nitrous system in my car as we speak. I already have 3.73 gears installed but have to admit I am looking forward to the day that I have to pull the whole rear and get a twelve bolt or some other aftermarket rear. It's clearly the weak link in the drivetrain.

                              However, I think if the car is stock right now and you are going to start with bolt ons spending 500 bucks to do gears, even if you are intending to do more later, is not too bad. You can normally re-sell them too, as long as you haven't broken them. I was so happy with my gears that I can't imagine a whole lot of single mods that will make you happier.

                              Changing the exhaust should be mentioned, too, since the sound of your rumbling v8 is a joy unlike many others. It may not be the best bang for the buck, but for everyday use few mods will make you smile more.

                              Just know that when you start, one mod will lead to the next and before you know it you can picture yourself spending thousands of dollars on mods that you have planned. I started just happy to have a TA, and now, five years after buying the car I am putting more and more into it. I NEVER would have thought of putting nitrous in my car! After talking to the guys and having them explain the safety equipment I am a lot more confident that I will not break anything because I am taking all of the precautions. Once you go to the track though, it can be very addicting. The 12's are sounding very , very nice right now!

                              I think from a pure performance standpoint, its hard to beat nitrous, but I expect my car to run 12'2 after the install is complete, and right now my best has been 13.79. Many times it seems that spraying is the quickest way to be fast!

                              '95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
                              Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.

                              13.685@102.11

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