The lights in my speedo cluster will not turn on. I've checked the fuse and its fine. Also all of the guages work and the warning lights come on when you first start it. I tried swapping in my old 110 cluster to see if it may just be the cluster and the same thing happened. Any ideas?
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Dash lights won't work
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not to be a sm@rt@ss, but is the "dial" accidently turned down so low that the dash lights are off?
PCM for Less tuned PCM, LT4 heads & intake, SLP headers, 1.6 RR's, SLP strut tower brace, air foil, throttle body bypass, oil cooler, 160* thermo, 3200 stall converter, manual fan switch, line lock, tranny cooler, exhaust cut outs, zexel torsion carrier w/3:73 gears, Magnaflow exhaust, Q-Logic Custom Dual 12" Sub Box, custom drk metallic blue decals, etc
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I've already checked that too but I really could picture that being something that I may look over lol.Originally posted by brynndanot to be a sm@rt@ss, but is the "dial" accidently turned down so low that the dash lights are off?
Also its not just the speedo cluster lights the lights for the vent controls are off also.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.
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I agree. I'd get out a multimeter and test the headlight switch. You could also test them by hotwiring them from the harness connector at the headlight switch, just to verify the problem is the switch.Originally posted by xxRillixxyea, i would check the dimmer wheel. I just had that problem yesterday... and it was just a loose connection to the light switch.
I've got my money on the headlight switch.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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Originally posted by TraceZI agree. I'd get out a multimeter and test the headlight switch. You could also test them by hotwiring them from the harness connector at the headlight switch, just to verify the problem is the switch.
I've got my money on the headlight switch.
great idea, try it and let us know how things turn out! i hope its a simple fix 4 ya!
PCM for Less tuned PCM, LT4 heads & intake, SLP headers, 1.6 RR's, SLP strut tower brace, air foil, throttle body bypass, oil cooler, 160* thermo, 3200 stall converter, manual fan switch, line lock, tranny cooler, exhaust cut outs, zexel torsion carrier w/3:73 gears, Magnaflow exhaust, Q-Logic Custom Dual 12" Sub Box, custom drk metallic blue decals, etc
www.WS6Racing.com
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Thanks for the help, about 5 minutes after replying to brynnda's post a little light bulb popped on in my head and I thought of that too because I had just been the DD for a friend this weekend in his mustang which had a bad connection at the switch. I'm going to check it today and will definetly put my money on that being the issue.Originally posted by xxRillixxyea, i would check the dimmer wheel. I just had that problem yesterday... and it was just a loose connection to the light switch.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.
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