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  • Lets talk gears.....

    Ok, again you must pardon my knowledge on alot of this stuff... it is all brand new to me ... (gotta start somewhere I guess!)

    1) Could someone explain the basic jist of gears to me... for instance ... what exactly is 3.73 gears... 4:10 .... etc....

    2) I have a 97 LT1 M6 ... what gear ratio do I have stock?

    3) If I upgrade to a new gear ratio, is it still drivable everyday on the street, or is it strictly for the track??

    Thanks all... !!!
    1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
    370 RWHP / 352 TQ
    CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

  • #2
    1. The ratio describes how many revolutions the rear axle makes for every turn of the driveshaft. 3.73's turn the rear axle 3.73 tunrs for every turn of the driveshaft. 4.10's turn it 4.1 times for every driveshaft turns. Hence, you'll accelerate quicker with 4.10's, but you'll be spinning the engine at a higher rpm for the same speed. Hence worse gas mileage and lower top speed.

    2. you have 3.42's stock

    3. Upgraded gears are not for the track only. You can drive every day provided you're willing to forego some gas mileage. 4.10's are the generally accepted best gears for an M6, and some people actually get better mileage with them because 6th gear becomes more useable.
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Dave M
      1. The ratio describes how many revolutions the rear axle makes for every turn of the driveshaft. 3.73's turn the rear axle 3.73 tunrs for every turn of the driveshaft. 4.10's turn it 4.1 times for every driveshaft turns. Hence, you'll accelerate quicker with 4.10's, but you'll be spinning the engine at a higher rpm for the same speed. Hence worse gas mileage and lower top speed.

      2. you have 3.42's stock

      3. Upgraded gears are not for the track only. You can drive every day provided you're willing to forego some gas mileage. 4.10's are the generally accepted best gears for an M6, and some people actually get better mileage with them because 6th gear becomes more useable.
      Gotcha... thank you!

      So, in a nutshell, if I'm going to get some gears, 4:10 is the way to go ... hands down... right??
      1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
      370 RWHP / 352 TQ
      CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard

      Comment


      • #4
        3.73's really wouldn't be much of an improvement over 3.42's. The difference would be negligible. 4.10's would be the way to go for an M6.
        Dave M
        Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Dave M
          1. The ratio describes how many revolutions the rear axle makes for every turn of the driveshaft. 3.73's turn the rear axle 3.73 tunrs for every turn of the driveshaft. 4.10's turn it 4.1 times for every driveshaft turns.
          I think you have it backwards.
          '95 Trans Am - A4, LE2 heads, LE1 cam, 1.6 ProMags, Comp R's, AS&M CAI, AS&M 54mm, MAC midlengths, Random Tech. cat, Borla cat back, PCMforless, Vigilante 2800, 3.73's, BMR LCAs/panhard/shock tower brace

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Dave M
            3.73's really wouldn't be much of an improvement over 3.42's. The difference would be negligible. 4.10's would be the way to go for an M6.
            I second this...definitely get 4.10's.
            black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

            Comment


            • #7
              A good read to understanding a differential and rear end gears is here.
              black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

              Comment


              • #8
                You have the gear thing backwards, ex 4.10 gears would have the driveshaft turn 4.10 to 1 turn of the axle
                1994 Z28 Camaro-Project carbed 4th gen
                1995 Silverado-beater truck
                2005 Colorado Z71-Daily driver

                Comment


                • #9
                  Think of the gears as a "torque multiplier". Going from your current 3.42 --> 3.73 would increase the torque at the rear wheels by 9%. You will "feel" it, and IMHO its more than negligible. Going from 3.42 --> 4.11 will increase the torque at the rear wheels by 20%. Definitely going to feel that, and definitely more significant than the 3.73's.

                  As noted in a couple posts above, the gear ratio reflects the number of revolutions of the driveshaft, for each revolution of the rear wheels.

                  Since you are increasing the torque at the rear wheels, you will definitely accelerate faster in any given gear. You will just hit "redline" (max allowable engine RPM) a little sooner in each gear. And, for any given cruising speed, in any given gear, the engine will be turning that much faster.

                  Some examples, assuming you are shifting at 5,600RPM:

                  GEAR - 3.42 - 4.11
                  ---- - ----- - -----
                  1 - - - -47 - - 39 MPH
                  2 - - - -70 - - 58 MPH
                  3 - - - -96 - - 80 MPH
                  4 - - - 125 - -104 MPH

                  When cruising at 70 MPH in 6th gear:

                  3.42 - 1,600 RPM
                  4.11 - 1,920 RPM

                  The actual number will vary a bit based on actual tire diameter, but you get the idea.

                  When you change the rear axle ratio, you need to have your PCM reprogrammed with the correct rear axle ratio, or your speedometer will read incorrectly.
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I knew I had it backwards when I posted it!! I always get it backwards. It's the driveshaft that turns faster, hence the reason why you rev higher with the higher gears.
                    Dave M
                    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have been toying with the idea of putting 4.10's in my nearly stock Z28 6 speed.
                      Some people have said it is beneficial and others said its not worth it.
                      Looking at it from a logical standpoint I believe it has to help exactly the way injuneer said.
                      Personally I dont care about top-end speed, my 150MPH days are long gone but I just want more accelaration especially after gentle take-off's when I floor it. My LT1 wont pull hard till about 2500 RPM.
                      If one were to take a bone stock Z28 and slap the 4.10's in it what could you expect with respect to 0-60 and 1/4 with the mod.
                      And is it true that 4.10's dont hold up well cause of the small pinion?
                      Thanks all
                      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think you could expect 2 - 4 tenths in the quarter. You've already got the HPP so you could adjust the speedo for the gears. I'd say it would be worth it.

                        As for strength, if you stick with the stock 10 bolt, anything can break, but 4.10s aren't inherently more weak than stock gears, AFAIK.
                        Dave M
                        Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What about an a4 going from 3.42's to 3.73 or 4.10?

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                          • #14
                            Highest recommended gear for an a4 is 3.73. Going from 3.42 to 3.73 would not be much. I think Injuneer said 9% gain. On a V6, you might see a tenth or 2 in the quarter. I'm not sure it would be worth the cost. I've always thought 3.42 is just about the perfect ratio for an A4. It's better than the 2.73 or 3.23 the car came with, but isn't steep enough to really impact mileage. Although, being a V6, you need more help getting the same performance a V8 naturally has. If you've got the money, and you want every tenth you can get, don't stop at 3.42's.
                            Dave M
                            Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


                            Comment


                            • #15
                              What is the best quality R&P with respect to strength and low noise.
                              Whats the deal with the 4.10 vs. the 4.11. Some say the 4.11 is much stronger!
                              1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                              Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                              Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                              Comment

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