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broke Stud.. header advice

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  • broke Stud.. header advice

    ok i my stud is broke off in the head.. the fart most bolt on the passenger side...i heard that there is a header that uses the bolt hole adjacent to the stud hole... Does anyone know which one this is.. i am going to buy headers... and need to seal this leak.... Thanks

    Chris

  • #2
    It would probably be easier to remove the broken stud with a bolt extractor from your local hardware store. They will have drill bits that work in reverse, then grab and back the bolt out. If you damage the threads you can get an insert, i.e. Heli-Coil, that you would have to drill a bigger hole for the insert to accept the size stud that you broke. Hope this helps.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 84Firebird
      It would probably be easier to remove the broken stud with a bolt extractor from your local hardware store. They will have drill bits that work in reverse, then grab and back the bolt out. If you damage the threads you can get an insert, i.e. Heli-Coil, that you would have to drill a bigger hole for the insert to accept the size stud that you broke. Hope this helps.
      LOL, good luck getting something to extract that out. I had the same problem. Same bolt. Lots of people do. I just drilled a new hole in my header, and in my gasket. I could not get that bolt out for anything, I doubt you'll have different' luck. Just drill a hole in the header and the gasket, about 1/4" from the hole that is already on the gasket. I can't remember the exact measurement. Measure it yourself and see. I don't know if your headers will have the room. My macs had plenty of room and this method worked pretty good.
      97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

      01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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      • #4
        Originally posted by raroZ28
        LOL, good luck getting something to extract that out. I had the same problem. Same bolt. Lots of people do. I just drilled a new hole in my header, and in my gasket. I could not get that bolt out for anything, I doubt you'll have different' luck. Just drill a hole in the header and the gasket, about 1/4" from the hole that is already on the gasket. I can't remember the exact measurement. Measure it yourself and see. I don't know if your headers will have the room. My macs had plenty of room and this method worked pretty good.

        I guess your right . It would be rather difficult for the average joe . I've had some pretty rusted out bolts, all it takes is a little patience and know how . You do have a good idea, though . The more ideas to help him out, the better.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 84Firebird
          I guess your right . It would be rather difficult for the average joe . I've had some pretty rusted out bolts, all it takes is a little patience and know how . You do have a good idea, though . The more ideas to help him out, the better.
          I've gotten out many'a'rusted bolts myself. I don't care who you are though, average joe or not, there is not enough room to get that bolt out without pulling the head. I even tried a small right angle drill, and there wasn't enough room. Maybe there is another tool out there that I did not have, but short of pulling the head, it's not coming out. But if you find a way, let us know! This is a very common problem. Check out cz28, you'll notice 8/10 guys that do headers have that bolt snap off.
          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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          • #6
            I think SLPs use the adjacent bolt hole. I haven't installed mine yet, but it looks like it uses the one closest to the exhaust port.
            And guess what, I have the exact same problem. Only the bolt that broke is #5 (from the front) on the driver's side:


            I've spent 3 days trying to drill it out. I already tried an extractor and the tip broke off in the bolt. I had to get a Tungsten/Carbide tip bit to drill through the broken tip. I'm now using a 1/4" bit and it's not easy. I also had to remove the steering shaft just to get a right angle drill attachment to fit. And I had to cut the bit so it's only 2", again to fit. This is a nightmare, but it's slow progress.

            I will check on my SLPs to confirm which bolt hole it uses.
            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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            • #7
              raro is right. Passenger side is practically impossible to remove in car. Zero room to work.

              Yes, it is the SLP headers that use the other hole. Those are what I bought and for the same reason (plus I'm in CA, so they had to be smog legal).

              If your car is not running great please do yourself a favor and do a compression check while you are there. I wish I had, now I am doing the job for a second time.

              Sean
              1994 Z28, 6 spd, LE2 Heads, GM 1.6 RR, .026" head gasket, SLP: CAI-Headers (CARB legal)-ypipe-2 on the left-lightweight flywheel-short throw, Random tech cat, CF dual friction, LT-4 KM.

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              • #8
                thanks for the help.. im going to def order those SLP headers.... thanks

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