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Avoiding broken bolts during header install....

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  • Avoiding broken bolts during header install....

    Hello, Im looking to install headers on my LT1 in the very near future.
    Can you guys offer advice to remove the bolts without breaking them off in the heads. I want to avoid this at all costs.

    Lastly what are the odds that this will happen, my engine has 74K and is very clean, not salt corrosion or issues like that.
    1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
    Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
    Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

  • #2
    I would say your chances are pretty good. It's good that is's clean, but I think what causes those bolts to break is the constant hot then cold cycles, and the rattling that causes them to break.

    If I could go back... I would soak my bolts in pb blaster 3x a day, soak it good before bed, and the next day tri it again. Take them out slow.

    When mine snapped (passenger side, closest to firewall), I didn't even see it coming. It was coming out smooth, I thought I had it out, but then I looked at the bolt and it was snapped. Didn't see it coming.

    PB is the only advice I could give. Some bolts are just going to break. Good luck.
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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    • #3
      When they do break where do they break, right at the bolt-head or flush with the aluminum head. If it breaks at the bolt-head I guess you get some vice-grips on there to try again.

      Is it possible to get a torch up in there to heat the bolts?

      What do you guys reccomend for bolt replacement, hopefully the strongest damn bolts they make.
      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

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      • #4
        I had no rust on the bolts when installing headers earlier this year, and I did not have any trouble with bolts breaking. I used a bunch of PB Blaster to soak the bolts for at least a day before taking them out. They all came out relatively easily. I put on Pacesetter headers with a 3/8" flange, and I used ARP 3/4" stainless bolts.

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        • #5
          When they break there is no telling if it's going to be near the head of the bolt or the middle, usually never breaks at the bottom unless they are rusted in.

          I'd check into replacing the stockers with some grade 8's, or getting an ARP kit when you do replace them.

          If they do break, dont' freak out, just go to Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware and pick up a set of bolt extractors called "easy outs"

          The work well usually, and WD40 is your friend.
          =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

          2001 TA ~ 2000 TA ~ 95 TA - Sold ~ 87 FB - Buried in New Mexico ~ 86 FB - Sold

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          • #6
            When replacing the bolts use copper coat or alumicoat for high temp applications and the next time you need them out the com out like butta!

            Eric W.

            89 Firebird Formula WS6
            Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
            6.2L/382.97 ci
            Custom PROM Dyno tuned
            WCT-5 speed
            BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
            Boss MS 18" Rims
            Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
            Custom Dual exhaust
            1LE upgrade
            Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
            In a constant state of upgrade!

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            • #7
              Just get some good hardened and heat treated bolts, strongest you can get, along with some lock washers. That's what I used. Torqued down good and never backed out. Only cost me like 12 bucks for all of them. Sure beats the ARP kit.

              No tellin' where they break. But like the guys said, pb and wd are your friends. However, pb works 10x better. wd is good for some things, but when it comes to rusty bolts pb is like no other.

              But when they do break, just hope it's on the drivers side, not the passenger. Take them out slow if you think it'll keep them from breaking. The passenger side will not allow a drill of any kind. there is NO ROOM. Drivers side might be able to fit something in there... Short of pulling the head, if you break one off in the p/s, you're f'd.
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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              • #8
                Originally posted by raroZ28
                Just get some good hardened and heat treated bolts, strongest you can get, along with some lock washers. That's what I used. Torqued down good and never backed out. Only cost me like 12 bucks for all of them. Sure beats the ARP kit.

                No tellin' where they break. But like the guys said, pb and wd are your friends. However, pb works 10x better. wd is good for some things, but when it comes to rusty bolts pb is like no other.
                You have to watch out for bolts made in China. They ship out of spec bolts to the US for cheap and a lot of the chains sell them - even the military & aircraft industry have bought them as counterfits and had them fail - there was a 60 minutes episode on this quite a few years back when engines were falling off jet planes. ARP does have superior bolts, but as you have noticed, they are not cheap. I useing ARPs for anything on the engine & try to get the best possible bolts for the suspension also. Anything critical gets top notch. PB, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, and 3in1 oil, but not WD. Wd-40 is a Water Displacement rust preventative and a light lubricant - it doesn't penetrate all that well. Bolts usually snap off near the head because that's where all the stress risers are.

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                • #9
                  on a note, wd40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th formula" thats what i heard atleast.

                  u could try once u get em free, turn it till it gets a lil stiffer, run it back in, and just keep going back and forth, it kinda clears the threads of rust, and each time u change directions spary some PB in there
                  2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                  old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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                  • #10
                    In my opinion, as long as you soak them good with PB blaster, and they're not broken already, you should be fine. I was able to remove all of the bolts with a soaking of PB Blaster...some soaked only minutes before I attempted to remove them (with 111k miles on the clock). They came out well, except for 1. The bolt that broke was one that had already broken. I didn't realize it was broken until I went underneath and tried to remove it. It had broke about 1/16" in the head. I'm now on day 5 of trying to drill it out with the head in place. One of the most awful jobs to do
                    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                    • #11
                      I tested one after soaking it with WD40, It seems to be working its way out. It may have even been a little loose. Damn I hope I am fortunate enough to not break any off. I the heads have to come off, they will be going to Lloyd elliot for the works.
                      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DeWynter
                        When replacing the bolts use copper coat or alumicoat for high temp applications and the next time you need them out the com out like butta!
                        By using anti-seize will this cause the bolts to back out?
                        1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                        Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                        Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wrd1972
                          By using anti-seize will this cause the bolts to back out?
                          No. Me personally, I will not screw anything into my aluminum head w/out anti seize. I used anti seize on my spark plugs and I had a few of those back out, but that's because I didn't tighten them enough. I'm always scared to tighten them a lot because they snap so easy, and you do not want something like that happening.

                          I say use the seize and torqe the bolts down tight. You'll be fine. Got about 5K on mine and they haven't backed out the slightest.
                          97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

                          01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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