Ok guys, today i was cleaning my car when i noticed on the rear wheel well, a bit of paint scraped off and it started forming a bit of rust...How do I fix it???? Please help!!! Hate rust!!!!!
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Some people will tell you that you can cover it with a rust preventative paint and be OK for awhile.
I'd recommend taking it down to bare metal and getting it repained professionally. If it is on the inside lip it is easy, just grind it down and have the inside lip repained and blended at the edge. They won't even have to repaint the quarter.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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Rustoleom....Spray bomb it. Used a angle grinder or cordless drill with a wire brush wheel and try to remove most of the rust (all it you can) and then just give it a sot of some spray bomb. Then go out to some paint shops and ask how much to paint the panal. Just make sure you move quick....rust is like cancer.....1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock
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Don't ever drive it in the rain!
1997 Trans Am WS6 Black M6
370 RWHP / 352 TQ
CC306 & Comp behives, LT1 Extreme Duty timing set, 1.6 RR's, CSR Elec Water Pump, Pacesetter LT's & ORY, GMMG w/ Ovals, K&N, Air Foil, TB Bypass, !AIR, !EGR, !CAGS, 160 deg thermo, LT4 KM, PCM tuning by Total-ReCal, March Pullies, Pro 5.0, 4.11 gears, LS1 alum DS, BMR strut tower brace, UMI SFC's, LCA's w/relo brackets & panhard
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I would agree that a professional fix is best, but if youre looking to do it inexpensively look at POR-15. Google it. Its awesome stuff. The rust will never come back.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
)

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I had the exact same problem.
Had it fixed at a body shop for 200.
Realize that if they just grind it down and repaint it, it will come back in a couple of years, depending on how much bad weather it sees.
Mine is starting to bubble up again after about two years. I guess that's about how long a repaint will save it.
'95 TA A4, 118000 on the clock!
Borla, Strange 3.73's, SLP CAI, Vortech elbow,AFS Z06 Wheels,White gauges/blue backlighting,blue custom interior,MBA Shift knob,MadZ28 Tune, Intrax springs, Bilstein shocks, ES Trans Mount, Honeycomb taillights.
13.685@102.11
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well it is very little. I dont think it is worth taking it to the body shop for. You cant even see it unless you get down really really close to it. I was thinking of maybe somthing i could put over it to prevent more rust from comming in right there maybe. But idk what to put on it is the problem
96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears
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POR 15 will fix it perminantly. A good body shop will use this on areas that have had rust and areas which tend to rust first when repainting a car. When I had mine done they put POR 15 on the whole botom foot of the car and the inside door panels and rocker area. Its awsome, no more rust.
Eric W.
89 Firebird Formula WS6
Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
6.2L/382.97 ci
Custom PROM Dyno tuned
WCT-5 speed
BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
Boss MS 18" Rims
Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
Custom Dual exhaust
1LE upgrade
Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
In a constant state of upgrade!
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Here's the way to do it so that rust doesn't return:
Completely sand down the area to bare metal. There will still be very small pits of rust imbedded into the metal that restorers usually have removed by acid dipping. Since that isn't an option on an assembled car, naval jelly is one product that will help here. Apply the stuff, let it sit and wash it off. It helps remove trace amounts of rust that will grow later. Once clean, re-sand lightly. Next is an epoxy sealer that coats the metal to prevent oxidation. If a dedicated epoxy sealer isn't available, POR-15 as mentioned is a great product. Apply it and let it dry. After it's dry, sand it smooth. You are now ready to apply the basic refinishing technics like primer, more sanding and followed by the color/clear coats. If done this way, a driveway repair will last many years. The multi step process can be a pain in the butt, but that's how and why professional shops charge so much dough to do it correctly.


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fastTa
POR-15 is kick a$$ stuff indeed. We used POR-15 Tie-Coat primer on my grille guard on my Tahoe and then painted it as normal. The rust didn't have a chance.Originally posted by N20LT4BirdI would agree that a professional fix is best, but if youre looking to do it inexpensively look at POR-15. Google it. Its awesome stuff. The rust will never come back.
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