I replaced my stock rotors with slotted and dimple drilled ones. Carbon matalic pads stanless lines. I bled the lines several times and I'm not happy with the braking. It still feels rather soft and the pedal travels to the floor before any real braking happenes. It does stop but not as well as I think it should. I want to replace the master cylinder. Is there a good aftermarket MC that some of you guys are using or should I just go with a stock one? Thanks, Dave
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When bleeding the brakes, have you bled the ABS unit?
Have you ever replaced the brake fluid? It might be shot after 8 years. IT absorbs water and causes corrosion, and problems with water vapor when the brakes get hot.
Has the "BRAKE" light ever come on, at any time other then when you pull the E-brake handle up? Generally a problem with the master cylinder will show up with the "BRAKE" light coming on. If the fluid is leaking past one of the pistons, there's a big difference in the pressure between the front and rear braking circuits, and that triggers the BRAKE light via the switch on the block on the side of the ABS.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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I have a manual for the ABS brakes and I bled them acording to the procedure in the manual. It was awhile sence I've done it so I dont remember the exact procedure but I know it was diffrent from the standard way. Yes I did have the brake light go on but that was a long time ago and it hasnt been on sence. If I had to guess it was over a year ago. As far as replacing the brake fluid, I bet I must have pumped enough through the system to replace the vast majority if not all. I was told once that this is just the way these brakes are. With ABS you dont have a real firm feel in the pedal. If I jamb the brakes on from 40 mph or so, the car does stop but the pedal goes rite to the floor and I dont think that rite.1997 30th Anniversary Z28. Artic White with Hugger Orange Stripes. T-Tops, K&N Cold Air Intake, Mac Headers & High Flow Cats,Flowmaster Cat Back. Auto W/B&M Shifter Plus. Drilled And Slotted Rotors. Steel Braded Brake Lines. Alpine CD/MP3, JL Audio Stealth Box.
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Those were replaced with Earls steel braded lines1997 30th Anniversary Z28. Artic White with Hugger Orange Stripes. T-Tops, K&N Cold Air Intake, Mac Headers & High Flow Cats,Flowmaster Cat Back. Auto W/B&M Shifter Plus. Drilled And Slotted Rotors. Steel Braded Brake Lines. Alpine CD/MP3, JL Audio Stealth Box.
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I would check and bleed the ABS module I just did the same upgrade on my car. I missed the section on bleeding the ABS module in my service manual (would have helped if the manual said anything about it) but anyway when I first took the car out it acted just like you describe...blead the ABS module and its 200% better now
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1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
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LT4 knock module
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Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
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I can try to do that again, I know I did ABS module, because it said to do it first, Before doing the brake lines. I guess the consenses is, it shouldn't be this way, I should still have a firm pedal even though it is an ABS system. I'll try to bleed the ABS then the lines again. If I still have a spongy pedal I'll replace the MC. Thanks Guys1997 30th Anniversary Z28. Artic White with Hugger Orange Stripes. T-Tops, K&N Cold Air Intake, Mac Headers & High Flow Cats,Flowmaster Cat Back. Auto W/B&M Shifter Plus. Drilled And Slotted Rotors. Steel Braded Brake Lines. Alpine CD/MP3, JL Audio Stealth Box.
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It's been a while since I've done mine, but I was thinking you start with the wheel farthest from the pedal and gradually worked your way towards the pedeal, with the ABS module done last. Did you have someone helping you so you could see when the air was out of the system? Perhaps there's a small leak somewhere? Did you use/get new washers when connecting the brake lines to the calipers? I had one leaking ever so slightly when I did mine because I reused a washer and it was too compressed... didn't seal. Made it almost impossible to get the air out of the system.Dave M
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Bleed the ABS module first Rear bleeder then front bleeder. Then do the wheels.Originally posted by Dave MIt's been a while since I've done mine, but I was thinking you start with the wheel farthest from the pedal and gradually worked your way towards the pedeal, with the ABS module done last. Did you have someone helping you so you could see when the air was out of the system? Perhaps there's a small leak somewhere? Did you use/get new washers when connecting the brake lines to the calipers? I had one leaking ever so slightly when I did mine because I reused a washer and it was too compressed... didn't seal. Made it almost impossible to get the air out of the system.
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When I replaced the lines I used all new washers. So, I dont think thats the problem. When I bled them I used one of those pumps that bleeds from the wheel cylinder. I'll try to bleed them the regular way with someone pumping the pedal and see if it makes a diffrence before replacing the MC. Thanks again to everyone for the help!1997 30th Anniversary Z28. Artic White with Hugger Orange Stripes. T-Tops, K&N Cold Air Intake, Mac Headers & High Flow Cats,Flowmaster Cat Back. Auto W/B&M Shifter Plus. Drilled And Slotted Rotors. Steel Braded Brake Lines. Alpine CD/MP3, JL Audio Stealth Box.
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