Ok, its time to replace the mounts. How hard is it to do? Whats the easyest way to do it? And what kind of mounts should I use? Please post links on what kind of mounts I should use if you can. Thanks.
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96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears -
Not an easy job unless you drop the front k-member. Unless you are doing some serious buildup, stock motor mounts will work fine. Poly is stiffer and you'll feel more vibration from the engine, and solid you really don't need unless you're planning on some serious HP.
Best thing to do is read up on the job in a Chilton's or Hayes, find someone who knows how to do it and offer them beer/food to help you, and plan on a weekend job so you don't rush thru it.
Doing it from underneath you'll want to drop the exhaust from the manifold so you'll have enough room to move around. Get a engine hoist to hold the engine up while you swap the mounts.96 T/A - Heavily Modded
87 Caprice DGCM Boxie - Stock -
This sounds like a bit bigger job then I had expected. But it just moves around too much so I really want to get it done.96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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What do you mean it moves around too much? Could you elaborate on that?Originally posted by 96CamaroTracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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It is not the easiest job, but can be done without an engine hoist. I did 1 side at a time. Passenger side seemed to be a nightmare. A/C lines were in the way in the front. The bolt is right in the middle of both lines, so I ended up bending them a bit, and hoping for the best. I think I removed the starter too. I stripped 1 of the nuts that are pressed into the frame. That killed plenty of hours trying to get that fixed. Drivers side took like 45 mins. Pass side like a day and a half.1995 Firebird Formula
(A4 3.23)Ram Air w/ K&N, TransGo Shift Kit w/3 washers
,SLP~Shorty headers, LoudMouth, Air Foil, LineLocks. Catco Cat. Hypertech 160. TB Bypass. MSD~8.5mm. Walbro 255lph. FT MAF ends. LT4KM. BMR~Adj LCA's, Rear sway, Panhard rod. HAL QA1 rear shocks. Random Tech adj TQ arm. Nitto NT555R's. Covered in Zaino. 13.466@103.85 N/A. [1.948 60' 
13.410 @ 102.66 11/20/05]Comment
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well, what do you guys think of those polyurathain motor mount incerts? and what else can you guys tell me about the install?96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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I'll repeat...
Originally posted by Dan B. 96 T/A96 T/A - Heavily Modded
87 Caprice DGCM Boxie - StockComment
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i know that, but i want to replace them because they seem pretty worn out.96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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Then just replace them with stock mounts. Stock mounts will perform just fine for your needs.
http://theautoindex.com/makes002.php/Engines/auto/index96 T/A - Heavily Modded
87 Caprice DGCM Boxie - StockComment
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well while i'm replacing them wouldnt it be better just to put mounts that are better then stock in?Originally posted by Dan B. 96 T/A96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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If you think you should replace the motor mounts, just take a ride over to your local shop and see what they think. Like these guys said if your moving into serious hp you'll need stronger mounts. If your going bolt ons, the only thing you might want to consider is a poly trans mount. Its a quick easy job if you have the tools.1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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I dont really have a local shop around here. The only speed shop around here is this place called 5th gear and they are a ricer place. So basicly with american muscle your on your own around here.96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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Use stock mounts, obtained from a GM parts outlet. Do not use generic Autozone or pepboys replacements. Do not use poly or aftermarket performance mounts because they are NOT necessary unless you are making significantly more torque at the motor than from the factory.
This is what I do for a living (engine mounts) and I can tell you that a lot of engineering work went into making the mounts on your car what they are. Any generic replacements will be of lower quality (worse durability and worse NVH), while any performance replacements are more expensive, will degrade NVH possibly alot, and are HARDER on the rest of the driveline.
Engine mounts don't "wear out". They either break (crack or tear) or degrade (totally rot out). If you can look at them and the rubber is ok - they don't need to be replaced.
Typically the engine mounts on our cars are very durable, likely if you feel things knocking around then there's a 99% chance you just have a failed transmission mount. The transmission mount is very weak. If you drive hard then you may want to give the 1LE part a shot, it is a little harder and should hold up a little better. It is also fairly painless to try a poly mount here because the swap is pretty easy.
Fact of the matter is that if you drive a stick hard - or have an automatic you regularly torque brake / or has a shift kit... you will be replacing a transmount a least a couple times through the life of the car.
The engine mounts should be fine. Maybe if you live in the salt belt, rust might have gotten to them. But if the rubber is ok use your money and time elsewhere.Comment
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