Need help! Oxygen sensor!
Ok. Here's the problem, I cant get the oxygen sensor from the passenger side header to come loose. Any sugestions at all? Because I really need to get it out of there and I'm sure some of you guys on the board have done it before. ANY help is appreciated!!! Thank you much in advance.
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96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears -
If you're talking about the O2 on the stock manifold, I couldn't get it out either. There's no room or access there. I know there have been a few to get them out, though...but I couldn't
I tried using an O2 socket (open slit on 1 side to go over the wires) but I still couldn't break it loose. If you have headers, I'm sure they have better access, depending on the brand 
I know my SLPs are much easier to get to compared to the stock manifolds.94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s... -
No...their stock headers
96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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Not the same since I have JBA headers but maybe this might help.... use the PB Penetrant... I mean soak it ... for like a day or two. someone here told me about it and it works well.. Also go to Sears and look for the crowfoot tool. I used that to get to the hard to reach O2 sensors.97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.Comment
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The helms manuals state that they are very difficult to take off if their temperature is below 120* . Try heating them up, but not too they'll burn you and give it a try.Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*
2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
pics and infoComment
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Yes often times o2 sensors need to be heated.....usually with an oxy acetylene torch. You can try a small MAP torch, but it may not be enough. You want to heat the manifold AROUND the sensor, not the sensor itself. The idea is to get the metal around the sensor to expand as it is heated, making it easier to get out.
Now, when (notice I say WHEN and not IF
)the threads strip out in the manifold, dont worry too much. If you go to autozone (or any of them) you can buy a double sided spark plug hole tap (with 2 sizes). THe larger side is the same as the O2 bung. Double check the threads against the new o2 sensor and use it to clean up the threads.
96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
)
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I already tryed pb, but i couldnt get it to spray where i wanted it so that ended up a mess. And I tryed running the car for a very little time and that didnt help. I have no idea what to do.96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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Torch it. (the nut not the car)Originally posted by 96Camaro2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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get the little straw off a WD40 can .. or get some small hose and spray it into it and direct it that way ....97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.Comment
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Spark plug arrestors from Autozone. They are intended to space the spark plug out from the head to prevent a misfire or something redneck, but they are also the same thread as an O2 bung, but at 1/3-1/4 the price. Go to an exhaust shop, have them torch a hole in your pipes and weld the arrestors in place. Leave your stock ones where they are (I couldn't get mine out either) and put the new ones in the new "bungs". Problem solved."No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"Comment
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Originally posted by MN6WS6
If youre going to an exhaust shop, just have them heat the crap out of it. Ive never had one that I couldnt get out with enough heat. Yes, the threads come with it, but you just tap it back out again like I mentioned earlier. Take it from a rust belt champion torcher......THere are some things you just NEED a oxy/acetylene torch for.......96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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