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You think you know LT1's..answer this!

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  • You think you know LT1's..answer this!

    Ok, ive posted on about 3 other message board about this problem ive been having and i get all different answers or no one knows. Ok, well, about 3 weeks ago i developed this loud annoying whistle/squeling sound coming from my car.
    1. It tends to only show up when the car is hot, or its hot outside and my car has been sitting outside.
    2. When the car is stopped and at low RPMs the sound is dismall, but once i give it throttle..to about 2000 RPMS it comes back.
    3. the sound comes from underneath the engine..
    4. ITS NOT THE ALTERNATOR. At first i though it could be the belt or a pulley, but i took the belt off and the sound was sill there. Then i thought it was the crankshaft pulley/balancer, but then i was told that it would not be making a whistling noise, but more of a growling noise..so i cancelled that.
    5. Then i was told it could be the waterpump, but its brand new and i havnt had any problems with it, but i was gonna try and replace it anyway....
    Well, i was just given a new peice of evidence... When i turned on the air conditioning the other day, the sound grew alot louder even when i wasnt moving. The sound went from unnoticable to loud. So, whatver is causing this noise, also uses the AC in some way. Now...the question is...what could it be? What could cause this noise??? i challenge you all to find out!!!!

  • #2
    Re: You think you know LT1's..answer this!

    Originally posted by z28marine
    When i turned on the air conditioning the other day, the sound grew alot louder even when i wasnt moving. The sound went from unnoticable to loud.
    The A/C clutch has bearings..... the pulley freewheels until the clutch engages, thus transfering the rotation to the compressor shaft. The additional load of the compressor would put an additional load on the bearings making the noise louder. The A/C system is a self contained system, it doesn't interact with any other system except the addition of a fan when the clutch engages and a computer generated increase in idle rpm. Also, the bearing clearances would be tighter when cold, increasing in clearance when warm, making more noise.

    What has my attention is that you said it makes the noise without the belt. The only items that are operating without the belt would be an electricaly driven air pump, shaft driven water pump or an internal problem. None of the above would have anything to do with the A/C except that the A/C compressor would put an additional load on the crankshaft. If you have a sloppy timing chain sprocket, the additional load could create more noise, a bad front main bearing could be the the source of noise as well.

    A mechanic's stethescope would help pinpoint the problem.

    Comment


    • #3
      Only a guess but I'll throw it out....

      Have you had your accessory belt replaced recently? Maybe dirty pulleys and belt...it can cause squeeking that may get worse when it's wet outside.
      Joe K.
      '11 BMW 328i
      '10 Matrix S AWD
      Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

      Comment


      • #4
        GREMLINS
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

        Comment


        • #5
          Easy test...

          This may not pinpoint the problem, but it can help eliminate sources.

          Using a spray bottle filled with water, one by one, spray the belt contact points. Start from the top pulley, working your way down to the tensioner, the ac pulley, alternator pulley, etc. The sound will briefly stop if the point you are spraying is the cause. If nothing else, at least you can eliminate these as sources.

          The alternator may be making noise as well. It's not uncommon for the alternator to make some noise as they age due to the heat wearing them out. Internally, there are numerous surfaces which can squeal if glazed or worn. Take it off and spin it by hand. Or, better yet, take it to a rebuild shop to have it bench tested at speed. They usually will do this free of charge.


          Finally, it may be the AC clutch bearing as stated earlier. A little WD-40 strategically squirted may help to briefly silence the noise if that's the cause. Just be sure not to get any on the belt.
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

          Comment


          • #6
            Everything Joe said about the AC is true. If it is the AC, you will also encounter the same problem when the defroster is engaged. Why it is is routed through the AC, I have no idea. Actually, I had to replace the unit in my '90 because of this problem. However, If you get the noise without the belt installed, that is not good! If you have a spun bearing, you will get a screeching noise especially when you give it some throttle. I rebuilt an '84 Bronco that when the throttle was hit or brought up to 2,000-3,000 RPM, it sounded like a squeaking fan belt. Well, when I pulled the oil pan, the main bearings were hosed, and pieces of the pistons were resting in the oil pan.
            '77 K5 rock-crawler project
            '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
            '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
            '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
            '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
            My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

            I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
            Thomas Jefferson

            Comment


            • #7
              didya check the AIR pump and connections?

              The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

              2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

              Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
              Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
              sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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              • #8
                I think most of you missed something in his original post....

                HE SAID HE PULLED THE BELT OFF, AND THE NOISE IS STILL THERE.

                At first i though it could be the belt or a pulley, but i took the belt off and the sound was sill there.
                Wouldn't that rule out the A/C, alternator, belt, idler pulley and power steering?

                That leaves anything that rotates, in concert with engine rpm... OPTI, water pump, timing chain, oil pump drive, crankshaft, cam, and seals related to those devices.

                The AIR pump only runs briefly, so that would not seem a likely candidate.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Injuneer
                  That leaves anything that rotates, in concert with engine rpm... OPTI, water pump, timing chain, oil pump drive, crankshaft, cam, and seals related to those devices.
                  Yup, this is kinda what I was alluding to in my post. I hope its opti, timing, or water pump related; and not the cam, oil pump, or especially the crank mains. The air conditioner puts a load on the engine (crank) which will make the problem worse. Anyhow, when I had to diagnose the problem as I described above, I had a buddy hit the throttle with me listening to the oil pan; sure as ****, it was the main bearings Although, it was pretty self evident for me with the chunks of piston lying in the oil pan as the motor was tearing itself apart
                  '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                  '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                  '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                  '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                  '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                  My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                  I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                  Thomas Jefferson

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    well...hopefully its not the pistons...i just changed my oil and no evidence of any metal in it...but who knows, and the car is running like it always has...but,i think it is the AC like stated before. I know when the belt was off the sound wasnt as loud, and i might have been mistaken about the sound at the time...im not positive but im hoping. I plan on testing tonight. But, i turned on the defroster too, and that also started the sound. The defroster runs off the same thing as the AC doesnt it? well, when the clutch is pushed down the sound is gone, but once i release the clutch, the sound comes back. So, it gets louder when the AC is on and defroster is on. The sound comes when the clutch is out, and the sound is only evident when the car is hot and its hot outside, making it possible the sound is the bearing like Al 96 Ram Air T/A said....so, how does the problem get fixed? I never use the AC as it is, so can i disengage it? or what must i do to fix this problem? Thanx alot sooooooooo damn much guys, you have helped alot.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      umm

                      Originally posted by markd79ta
                      Everything Joe said about the AC is true. If it is the AC, you will also encounter the same problem when the defroster is engaged. Why it is is routed through the AC, I have no idea. Ac

                      Umm, this is for when you need to clear away
                      moisture on your inside window. If you didn't
                      have it on, you front window would be steamed
                      up and you wouldn't be able to see anything.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well, the sound has the same reaction to when the defroster is turned on as when the AC is turned on...the noise gets louder. So...how do i correct the problem???

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The A/C clutch is engaged when the defroster is turned on. It is all the same system. To disconnect, pull the harness connector going to the A/C clutch.

                          I'm going to suggest this one more time...... go down to the autoparts store and pick up a mechanic's stethescope. Start the car and start probing around. When the probe is placed on each item, the sound is transmitted to the headset. You'll know when you find the area of the problem as the sound in the headset gets louder. This will eliminate 95% of all this guessing.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Joe:

                            I've been following this topic for 3 weeks on various boards....

                            People are making suggestions like crazy, including the one you made, but I haven't seen him actually try and do anything to pin the problem down. He just keeps asking the question over and over and doesn't attempt to work on it himself....

                            Harsh, but after watching this float around the various boards for 3 weeks, it makes me wonder.

                            Fred
                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The reason is that i keep asking different boards is because i keep getting different suggestions everytime, and i havnt had tht time to work on it. Last time i asked, everyone was sure it was a waterpump, but i dont want to go out and spend money on a new waterpump which i just replaced not to long ago, adn then come to find out its not that. I just want to be certain. Im asking alot of questions because im trying a process of elimination. Ill try the stethescope out first and see where it gets me. DOnt think that your suggestion are falling on deaf ears. Im just trying to get the maximum number of input so i know what i can do if its the AC, the crankshaft, the waterpump, etc. Sorry about dragging this one on. Ill let you know when i try the stethscope.

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