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    My factory rotors are warped. My pads are almost depleted, and they fling a ton of brake dust on my nice clean chrome wheels. For a LT1 f-body, what are my options? I like the look and idea of the drilled and slotted rotors that are stock size with ceramic brake pads, i can get the rotors off of ebay for 145-209 for the ones in my price range, that is for all four and buy ceramic brake pads from murrays or autozone. But would i be better off with another setup?
    1995 LT1 bird
    10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
    275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

    2005 Dode SRT-4
    agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
    6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

  • #2
    I am not a fan of ceramic pads unless you work the car hard. They require a little more heat to be effective, for instance when driving in the rain. The pads seem to do little until they build some heat and then they work fine. My personal choice is carbon metallic. They stop much better when cold than ceramics.

    Comment


    • #3
      You might consider doing the LS1 brake conversion at this time. The performance is mnay times better than the dinky LT1 brakes. Most noticable mod I have done, they dont fade out as bad and grab like a big dog.
      1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
      Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
      Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

      Comment


      • #4
        How much did that cost? And where did you get the parts from? Could i use some of the parts to convert it and buy drilled and slotted LS1 rotors?
        1995 LT1 bird
        10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
        275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

        2005 Dode SRT-4
        agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
        6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by wrd1972
          You might consider doing the LS1 brake conversion at this time. The performance is mnay times better than the dinky LT1 brakes. Most noticable mod I have done, they dont fade out as bad and grab like a big dog.
          I second that. I got my stuff from here http://www.tennesseeauto.com/19to20ls1frb.html
          $250
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            what all do i need?
            1995 LT1 bird
            10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
            275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

            2005 Dode SRT-4
            agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
            6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

            Comment


            • #7
              For the front you will need the caliper bracket, rotor, caliper, pads, brake lines from LS1 car, and the bracket that holds the brake line to the frame. The LS1 brake lines will not fit the bracket on the LT1 car. You can drill out the bracket on the LT1 car to get the LS1 bracket in it. You can however get the Earl braided steel lines and it will fit the LT1 bracket.

              You will need a tool to separate the tie rod end and the upper and lower ball joints. A pickle fork will not work. It will tear the boot around the ball joint. A 2 prong gear puller worked for me but don't get one that is very large. It's difficult to use it on the upper ball joint because of the bend in the caliper bracket. A smaller one works better for it.

              It won't take but a couple of hours to do if you have all the parts.

              I just used Auto Zone pads on mine and they re much better than the LT1 brakes. The pedal is much firmer. I get in other cars and realize how much better my brakes are. LS1 guys are lucky to get these from the factory.

              Here is a picture of the LT1 brakes on the left vs. the LS1 brakes on the right.
              http://www.claire-marie.net/LT1vsLS1_brakes.JPG
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                I second that. I got my stuff from here http://www.tennesseeauto.com/19to20ls1frb.html
                $250
                Does that include everything you need to do the swap?


                SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                  I second that. I got my stuff from here http://www.tennesseeauto.com/19to20ls1frb.html
                  $250

                  Word
                  $175 shipped minus rotors.
                  You get the knuckles, hoses, calipers, brackets and bolts.
                  Buy some aftermarket slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Believe it when I say the brakes are every bit twice the power as the puny LT1 brakes. Install is very straight forward.
                  1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                  Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                  Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeanius
                    Does that include everything you need to do the swap?
                    Yes. But if you decide to get them from a junk yard, make sure you give them the list I gave above. If you don't, they may not give you the frame brackets. Also ask them to verify that they are giving you a left hand bracket, caliper and brake line. They are different. Only the rotors are the same. I can't remember if the frame brackets are the same or not.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                      Yes. But if you decide to get them from a junk yard, make sure you give them the list I gave above. If you don't, they may not give you the frame brackets. Also ask them to verify that they are giving you a left hand bracket, caliper and brake line. They are different. Only the rotors are the same. I can't remember if the frame brackets are the same or not.
                      I think id rather get brand new parts, thanks for the advice!

                      Originally posted by wrd1972
                      Word
                      $175 shipped minus rotors.
                      You get the knuckles, hoses, calipers, brackets and bolts.
                      Buy some aftermarket slotted rotors and Hawk pads. Believe it when I say the brakes are every bit twice the power as the puny LT1 brakes. Install is very straight forward.
                      Did you get them from tennesseeauto.com also?


                      SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jeanius
                        I think id rather get brand new parts, thanks for the advice!
                        Well here's a parts list for the LT1 to LS1 front brake conversion

                        Knuckle (caliper bracket)
                        LH GM#18060620 AC-Delco#18060620 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $131.40
                        RH GM#18060621 AC-Delco#18060621 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $131.40

                        Rotor (don't ask me what the difference is)
                        98-99 GM# 18060230 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE N/A
                        00-02 GM# 18060640 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $76.21

                        Caliper: The parts list does not list a single number for the assembly. Also note that when you buy a rebuilt caliper from the local parts store it does not come with the brake pad bracket, anti rattle clips, seals, caliper mounting bolts, or the slides.

                        Brake pad bracket: GM# 18026163 quantity 1 (enough for one sides) http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ 58.92
                        Caliper mounting bolts: GM# 18026153 (it says they are included in the bracket) quantity 4 (2 are needed per side) http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ 8.66
                        Caliper anti rattle clip: GM# 18026164 (comes with brake pad bracket) quantity 2 (enough for one sides) http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ 6.97
                        Caliper slides: GM# 18026161 quantity 4 (enough for both sides) http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ N/A
                        Brake pad spring: GM# 18026181 quantity 2 (enough for both sides) http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ 7.37
                        Slide Seals: GM# 18026151 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $ 7.15
                        (The anti rattle clips and slide seals are available from the local parts store in a kit for $9.99)

                        Brake line:
                        LH GM# 22163505 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $26.15
                        RH GM# 22163506 http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ PRICE $26.15
                        Brake line bolt: Parts list says it's part of the line.
                        Brake line gasket: Parts list says it's part of the line.
                        Brake line bracket: For some reason the parts list does not have a number for the bracket. I checked both the Camaro and the Firebird parts list. It does not say it is included with anything either. I don't know how you would get it except from a junk yard.
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jeanius
                          I think id rather get brand new parts, thanks for the advice!



                          Did you get them from tennesseeauto.com also?
                          Yes I did about 4 months ago, again I did not take the rotors or pads.
                          1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                          Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                          Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I got my kit from Tennessee auto and one of the knuckles were bent....these parts are more than likely taken from wrecks so be carefull and check the components for damage if you buy from them.
                            95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              How did you tell that they were bent, did they replace them.
                              I was assured that mine came off a camaro that was not hit in the front.
                              I ahve heard nothing but good things about Tenessee auto.
                              1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
                              Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
                              Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.

                              Comment

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