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  • Storage Question

    I am getting ready to go off to college at the end of the week, and i will not be driving my car around. It will be started fairly frequently by my dad but I was wondering if anyone had any tips on the storage, especially since it will be outside in the winter. I will drive it up adn down the driveway when I can but any advice would be useful. thanks.
    -Dan

    1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

    Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.


  • #2
    well, you need to get a cover on it, broh. a good all weather cover. also, have your dad check the tire pressure when the ambient temp drops way low and pump em up...... they will seap air anyway.... make sure your antifreeze is at the right mix so it does not freeze up...... it wouldnt hurt to coat your hoses with zaino z16 rubber preservative either.... also, if you can get under it, take some WD40 and spray all the moving connections under there, and silcone the rubber bushings too.

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    • #3
      thanks wolfman Im gonna get on all of that tomorrow morning bright and early. Should I spray again with the WD-40 and silicone at various intervals as well, cuz i would think it would wear off after a while.
      -Dan

      1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

      Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

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      • #4
        I second the cover. If you have to store it outside, a cover is a must. As Ken said, make sure it's a good all-weather cover. Should be breathable, but let no elements in. My Brother's C4 Vette sat outside last winter. He bought a California Car Cover. It was a bit pricey, but worth every penny.
        SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
        SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
        17K Miles

        2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
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        • #5
          Frequently starting the engine for short periods (even if you drive it up and down the driveway) may do more harm than good. If the oil and the coolant does not get up to full operating temperature, you will be condensing water in the oil. That, combined with the other blowby products in the crankcase can form some acids that end up in the oil and do more damage.

          If possible, put a "Battery Tender" on it. This is a very small "floating" battery charger that maintains the battery as EXACTLY the correct voltage to keep it charged AND prolong its life. I use one all the time on my car, which can sit in the garage for months on end. That way you have no real reason to start it.

          If you do start it, drive it on the road under moderate load for at least 15 minutes. You'd be surprised how long it takes the oil to get up to full temperature in the winter.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Injuneer
            Frequently starting the engine for short periods (even if you drive it up and down the driveway) may do more harm than good. If the oil and the coolant does not get up to full operating temperature, you will be condensing water in the oil. That, combined with the other blowby products in the crankcase can form some acids that end up in the oil and do more damage.

            If possible, put a "Battery Tender" on it. This is a very small "floating" battery charger that maintains the battery as EXACTLY the correct voltage to keep it charged AND prolong its life. I use one all the time on my car, which can sit in the garage for months on end. That way you have no real reason to start it.

            If you do start it, drive it on the road under moderate load for at least 15 minutes. You'd be surprised how long it takes the oil to get up to full temperature in the winter.
            Good to know!

            Props on the helpful info as always Fred
            black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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            • #7
              will do man, ill remember that battery tender when i order stuff tomorrow. Thanks again.
              -Dan

              1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.

              Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.

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              • #8
                In addition to the above, you will definitely want to put some fuel stabilizer in the tank. I keep my tank as full as I can for the winter to not allow room for air to cause condensation in the tank. I put moth balls around the car by each tire and mouse poison packets in the car, just in case they do get in there. I would recommend a CoverIt portable garage, which runs about $400 for a 12x20. I layed down some sheets of plywood over plastic sheeting in my CoverIt to keep the moisture away too.

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