NASCAR rims on a stock f-body?

[gottico2]

Question

I want to buy a set of NASCAR rims for a 996 firebired 3800 V-6--will they fit with the existing tire I have or do I need to change tires...and is spacing going to be an issue..does anyone know...has anyone tried? The rims are made by bassett racing

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Well actual NASCAR rims use a 5 lug 4.5" bolt circle which won't fit your car. They use the Ford/Chrysler lug pattern even on the GMs. We used to call them "wagon wheels".

[Injuneer]

The NASCAR wheels made by Bassett are available in 15x8 with a 5x4.75" bolt circle. At least the bolt pattern would match.

http://www.bassettwheel.com/excel.html



I'm assuming you are not talking about the "beadlock" wheels that they sell. Since they are 15" wheels, and I'm pretty sure your Camaro came with 16" wheels, your current tires aren't going to fit.

Then there's the issure of backspace.... they only show 4.75" max. You need more like 5.5" backspace. Then there's the issue of whether they will fit over the brakes. I know the Weld 15" wheels will not clear the front brake calipers on my car, and require spacers. They also will not fit over the rear calipers (are your V6 brakes discs or drum?). The fins need to be ground down. Some 15" wheels will fit (e.g. Centerline Telstars), but many will not work without spacers or modifications.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I've always wondered that too. But it doesn't make sense why their 15" wheels fit their ~12.9"-13" brakes. Stock LT1s use 11" or so? Maybe the size of their calipers are "space saving"?

BTW, what is your intention on using them?

[Injuneer]

The interference on the Weld 15's is not actually the caliper. That clears OK. It is the spring clips on the outer brake pad, that stick out and rub on the spokes of the wheel. How much they rub will depend on the thickness of the pads, since the caliper and the back of the pads moves inward as the pads wear.

And, the big horizontal bar on the steering knuckle that supports the caliper and pads. The very end of that digs into the "knuckle" (radius) where the flat/spoke portion of the wheel rolls over to become the "rim" portin of the wheel. If that radius was sharper, or pulled back a bit, there would be no interference at that point, and if the face/spokes of the wheel were not flat, but curved outward from the hub, it would clear the spring clip.

[Joe 1320]

That reminds me, those IROC T/As looked cool all decked out in nascar trim. That would be a cool wheel and tire combo to have fabbed.