Exhaust manifold leak

[Z Ya Later]

I've been hearing what sounded like an exhaust leak the fast few days. I just did plugs and wires and made sure the Y-pipe is tight, so I checked the driver's exhaust manifold. 3 of the bolts weren't even finger tight!!!! So, I'm thinkin' maybe replacing the gaskets would be a good idea. Plus, I think the passenger side is loose (or maybe its just the Loud Mouth barking ). First, are there any particular favorites for the gasket? Second, how long should this realistically take? Just a couple hours at the most, right? Thanks everyone.

[94 formula]

If you have the money may as well do headers while your in there and kill two birds with one stone . I'd recommend picking up ARP bolts or something else a little higher quality. I found one snapped off in my head while putting on headers and had to pull a head to fix it. I use felpro gaskets and have had no problems whatsoever you can pick them up at your local auto parts store for around $10 just make sure they give you the right ones with the d shaped ports.

[Z Ya Later]

Believe me, if I had the money, I'd already have headers on their way lol.

For now, I'm going to stick with the manifolds. Not as good as headers, but better than nothing . Maybe a set of ARP bolts wouln't be a bad idea as well. Same part # as the ones people recommend for headers, right?

Plus, as it turns out, the last person that did the plugs and plug wires on her didn't get the #2 plug torqued down enough (rattled itself out partially) and overtightened the Y-pipe, as the flanges are now bent up-ward. This makes it a pain to pull the Y-pipe and put it back on. So, I may end up getting the SLP Y-pipe to replace it...as a temporary fix

[Trash man]

copper or crushable metal gaskets

[Joe 1320]

Steve, if the gaskets are stacked steel shims, you won't need to replace the gaskets. Just retorque and you're good to go.

[Z Ya Later]

Steve, if the gaskets are stacked steel shims, you won't need to replace the gaskets. Just retorque and you're good to go.

That's just it, I don't know. I know the pass. side is stock, but I would imagine that the driver's side was replaced when the head gasket blew a few yrs. ago. I would imagine that's why the driver's side is loose (nobody probably rechecked the torque). The driver's side looks to be a metal (presumably steel) gasket. Is this what you're referring to Joe?

If I do need to replace them, then I'll go with the copper ones as 88bird5spd suggested...unless there's something better.

[wrd1972]

I am going to be doing headers soon. Where can I get these copper gaskets and are they the most reliable for aftermarket headers.