Cam question for LT1

[1FASTz28]

Would a hotcam be worth putting on a pretty much stock LT1? Like I dont have headers yet or anything major. I have a slp loudmouth already and love the sound but I want the loud sound in idle when I am at a stop light when a rice burner pulls up I want him to hear whos boss!

[Trash man]

unless u got the parts to support it(ported intake and heads and a freer flowing exhuast and intake) the gains arent that much. get urself a set of headers and at a cut-out who knows u might get a evo next to you

[95TransAm]

Would a hotcam be worth putting on a pretty much stock LT1? Like I dont have headers yet or anything major. I have a slp loudmouth already and love the sound but I want the loud sound in idle when I am at a stop light when a rice burner pulls up I want him to hear whos boss!

There are many other cams out there than you can benefit better from than the hotcam. I haven't cammed my car yet, so my experience isn't there with this topic, but alot of people here have.

If I do remember correctly, the cc306 was a choice I remember some people saying they liked.

It's all about what you want with a cam. Is streetability a factor, or do you want some huge bump stick in there. A set of 1.6 RR's, new valve springs, lifters, and pushrods are also a good idea to replace since you're in there...not necessary though...just good things to compliment your cam.

[fastTa]

From one of my previous posts on this topic:

1."The CC306 cam is ground on technology that is over 20 years old. The CC306 is effectively all bark and no bite. There are much, much better cams available for LT1's that will provide much more power, much better idle characteristics, and better overall driveability.

The CC306 is listed as 230/244 @ .050", .510"/.540", 112 LSA. With that much spit in the duration and that little of lift, the CC306 is a very choppy cam that is very soft down low. The nose radius and flank rates of this cam are also off in relation to the LSA and lift. In addition with a 244 exhaust valve duration and .540" of exhaust valve lift on a 112 LSA, you are going to have a significant overlap without the effective intake or exhaust lift to support it or the intake duration to support it.

But lets look at this in even more detail.

There are a few ways to calculate degrees of overlap. I will use the advertised duration and lobe separation angle method since I do not know offhand the specific IVO or the EVC timing of the CC306 camshaft.

First you add the advertised intake and exhaust duration together. Then you divide that sum by 4. Then subtract the LSA. Then multiply that by 2.

290+307 = 597
597/4 = 149.25
149.25-112 = 37.25
37.25 * 2 = 74.5

So the total valve overlap is approximately 74.5°. Like mentioned above, the profile of this cam cannot effectively support the overlap. Thus you end up with a rough cam that doesn't make really good power for what it is.

If you want to stay around this size cam, there is a popular grind R&D'ed by Combination Moptorsports, the TN-230XL. It is listed as 230/236 @ .050", .544"/.555", 112 LSA. This cam will make better power, idle better, and drive better."

Basically the stock LT1 head falls flat at .400" of lift. Given this as well as stock exhaust manifolds, a larger cam would not do much in the way of power gains. If all you care about is a lopy cam, then go for it, but it will affect the driveability depending on how large you go.

[95TransAm]

From one of my previous posts on this topic:

1."The CC306 cam is ground on technology that is over 20 years old. The CC306 is effectively all bark and no bite. There are much, much better cams available for LT1's that will provide much more power, much better idle characteristics, and better overall driveability.

The CC306 is listed as 230/244 @ .050", .510"/.540", 112 LSA. With that much spit in the duration and that little of lift, the CC306 is a very choppy cam that is very soft down low. The nose radius and flank rates of this cam are also off in relation to the LSA and lift. In addition with a 244 exhaust valve duration and .540" of exhaust valve lift on a 112 LSA, you are going to have a significant overlap without the effective intake or exhaust lift to support it or the intake duration to support it.

But lets look at this in even more detail.

There are a few ways to calculate degrees of overlap. I will use the advertised duration and lobe separation angle method since I do not know offhand the specific IVO or the EVC timing of the CC306 camshaft.

First you add the advertised intake and exhaust duration together. Then you divide that sum by 4. Then subtract the LSA. Then multiply that by 2.

290+307 = 597
597/4 = 149.25
149.25-112 = 37.25
37.25 * 2 = 74.5

So the total valve overlap is approximately 74.5°. Like mentioned above, the profile of this cam cannot effectively support the overlap. Thus you end up with a rough cam that doesn't make really good power for what it is.

If you want to stay around this size cam, there is a popular grind R&D'ed by Combination Moptorsports, the TN-230XL. It is listed as 230/236 @ .050", .544"/.555", 112 LSA. This cam will make better power, idle better, and drive better."

Basically the stock LT1 head falls flat at .400" of lift. Given this as well as stock exhaust manifolds, a larger cam would not do much in the way of power gains. If all you care about is a lopy cam, then go for it, but it will affect the driveability depending on how large you go.

Ahhh...smart man here. Good call

Then it would definitely seem like that if you want to benefit from a good cam (not the cc306), a full exhaust is in order. That's pretty much a given, but I didn't realize how much a restricted exhaust hurts your performance with a bigger cam.

I knew there was a reason why I wanted to get all of my bolt ons and restoration out of the way before I started internal engine work...I just never really knew I guess

[fastTa]

Then it would definitely seem like that if you want to benefit from a good cam (not the cc306), a full exhaust is in order. That's pretty much a given, but I didn't realize how much a restricted exhaust hurts your performance with a bigger cam.

Full exhaust is definitely a good idea, but it's the stock LT1 heads that are restrictive. So if you cannot get anymore port velocity or CFM out of the stock LT1 head over .400" of lift, then their really is no point to going with a bigger cam. The extra a/f that the bigger cam is attempting to alow in will not be as efficiently used and expelled in comparison to a better flowing, higher port velocity ported head.

[95TransAm]

Full exhaust is definitely a good idea, but it's the stock LT1 heads that are restrictive. So if you cannot get anymore port velocity or CFM out of the stock LT1 head over .400" of lift, then their really is no point to going with a bigger cam. The extra a/f that the bigger cam is attempting to alow in will not be as efficiently used and expelled in comparison to a better flowing, higher port velocity ported head.

Ahhh...now I fully understand what you were saying. It makes sense when you just think about it for a second.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge

[zz4camaro1980]

I am currently running the Hot Cam Kit (218/228, .525/.525, w/ 1.6 RRs) in a zz4. This setup is amazing, its streetable, sounds great at an idle and still produces over 400 hp. Im pretty sure my zz4 heads top out at 197 cfm, and to get 400 hp out of them is incredible. I could only imagine it would be better in an LT-1.

[1FASTz28]

Full exhaust is definitely a good idea, but it's the stock LT1 heads that are restrictive. So if you cannot get anymore port velocity or CFM out of the stock LT1 head over .400" of lift, then their really is no point to going with a bigger cam. The extra a/f that the bigger cam is attempting to alow in will not be as efficiently used and expelled in comparison to a better flowing, higher port velocity ported head.

So Since I already have a SLP loudmouth I should buy heads and high flow CAT and then the cam? What I am looking for out of a cam is the MEAN sound as well as a HP gain. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I am not much of a mechanic =}

[95TransAm]

So Since I already have a SLP loudmouth I should buy heads and high flow CAT and then the cam? What I am looking for out of a cam is the MEAN sound as well as a HP gain. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but I am not much of a mechanic =}

Basically, to sum up what he is saying...

If you want the most out of your cam...and you want it mean...you'll need

~A full exhaust (headers, y-pipe, hi flow cat, catback)
~Heads ported

If you don't already have a CAI, that would also be a good idea

IMO, getting new rockers, valve springs, pushrods, and lifters would be necessary if I was putting in a cam...but then again, that's me.

Basically, to sum it up...you can put in a cam now. Yes, it will sound mean, and yes it could sound lopey at idle...but you wouldn't be utilizing it's full potential. With the other mods listed...then you'd be waking up that cam a bit

There are milder cams out there...but it seams like you want a pretty large bump stick.

[casey02ws6]

Just a note - add the prices up on all of the parts - it will surprise you if you do it right. I know the parts for my LS1 are more expensive than the LT1 parts but you will get nickle and dimed to death. I cannot imagine running the stock valvetrain with an aftermarket cam. In my opinion do it right the first time - new springs, rockers, pushrods, etc. Long tube headers will go a long way toward the sound you are after - I would start there. If you do not have emissions testing scrap the cats and get a ORY pipe - you will be well on your way toward scaring the crap out of the next ricer you run into. The cam is the cherry on top....my favorite mod. I only wish I could get you a sound clip....I have been followed home twice by guys just wanting to know what the heck I had under the hood....so much fun! Happy modding.