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  • #16
    o2 sims do in fact out put an oscillating voltage. I believe they use a counter similar to a 555 IC timer, that in conjunction with a transistor switch and various other components, has the ability to output a signal to satisfy the PCM based on the sim's pre-set oscillating square wave.

    I've measured the output of the sims that I ordered from Thunder. They bounce around between 100mv to 750mv. A little higher on both ends when the car is running.

    Here is an interesting page. I'm not sure if this one works for sure or not, but seems viable:

    http://mkiv.com/techarticles/oxygen_sensor_simulator/

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    • #17
      Cool

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
        Cool
        Put your thinking cap on. Here is a pretty in depth tutorial on a 555 IC Timer:

        http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/555/555.html

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        • #19
          I built lots o stuff with 555s in the past. They make a good cheap clock. All they're doing in that circuit is making a clock which charges/discharges a cap to get the switching voltage that that simulates the O2. I could build up that circuit really cheap, but the time you got the O2 connectors, made the little circuit board, and potted it, it would be a bunch of work. Still if I needed 2 of them for $50 or whatever (which I dont) I would probably make them myself.

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          • #20
            If you build those, I'd be in for at least one set. I don't even need the connectors, as I can solder mine in and heat shrink them shut. I can't read diagrams because I have no schooling in electronics, but if somebody sent me one built I could duplicate it. I've been soldering for years, so that stuff doesn't scare me. I just don't know all the technical mumbo jumbo behind it.
            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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            • #21
              The only real work is getting the board designed, etched & drilled. I'll see if we have the stuff at work for that (I might have it at home even), and maybe I'll design it up and make a few.

              Regarding soldering them to the original O2 sensor wires, one of the wires might be stainless, so you may need some other form of connector there. the harness wires are normal copper AFAIK.

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              • #22
                Hmm, stainless. Well, there's always a butt connector, fill the ends with hot glue, and wrap in heat shrink, wrap in electrical tape, and wire tie both ends shut. Slight bit of work involved there though
                "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                • #23
                  I bought a "universal" O2 sensor for my son's Suzuki Sidekick, and it required reuse of the stock connector. Came with crimp connectors for the stainless wires. Installed it that way and no problems for 4 years so far.
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                  • #24
                    Bosch's univeral o2 sensor comes with a pretty nice connector kit with those Posi-Locks. I'm not sure if they just sell the connector kit separately, but Autozone carries the Bosch univeral kit with sensor for ~$54. So, I would imagine if they sell just the connectors separately, it wouldn't cost much.

                    http://www.boschusa.com/images/OxygenSensorInstall.pdf

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