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  • heading to the track

    any suggestions never been before?


    what should i lower my tire pressure to?


    how should i launch flash the converter? or rev it a little bit?

    feather the throttle or nail it?
    1995 LT1 bird
    10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
    275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear

    2005 Dode SRT-4
    agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
    6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats

  • #2
    Have you herd of a line lock.
    JackZ28
    K & N CAI
    Kooks Header LT's
    Free Flow Cat, Magnaflow Exhaust
    Y-Pipe
    Synthetic Fluids

    Comment


    • #3
      Not sure I understnd that last post, which appears a bit sarcastic. Why does he need a Line Lock? Appears he's running stock tires, so no burnout, or minimal burnout. A quick dry hop to clean the tread off should be enough.

      The brakes should be able to hold it on the 2800 converter.

      I don't know what tire you have, but STAY OUT OF THE WATER BOX. Drive around it, push moderately on the brake pedal, and give the accel pedal enough of goose to spins the back tires once.... not a real burnout.

      When you stage, observe the common courtesy.... don't light the second staging light until both lanes have lit the top light. For you first launch, bring it up to maybe 2000rpm against the foot brake, and when the 2nd amber lights, floor it. If it spins, back off til it recovers and complete your pass. Next launch, adjust to whatever happened. If it hooked at 2000rpm, bring it up to 2500 on the next launch. If it spun badly (a little spin is OK) at 2000, try coming off idle on the next launch.

      The best thing to do is to focus ONLY on your car. Ignore the car in the other lane, don't try to cut an "000" light, don't worry about whether you win or lose. Use the first few passes to figure the car out.

      When you finish your pass, be sure you know where the turnoff lane is. If there is a car in the lane between you and the turnoff, let him exit first. If there is a scale on the return lane, put your car on it and check the race weight.

      After the pass, write down your results, and note the weather (temp, humidity, barometer - if available at the track), and the things you did for that run - tire pressure, extent of burnout, rpm at launch, etc. If you write it all down, it helps you plan for the best way to launch.

      Finally - have fun, and don't get all up tight if you aren't running at quick as you think you should. It all in the 60-ft times, and that's what you are there to improve.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        A lot of guys I know air the fronts up, and air the backs down. Fronts to around 45, backs to about 30.

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        • #5
          sorry did not mean to be sarcastic.
          JackZ28
          K & N CAI
          Kooks Header LT's
          Free Flow Cat, Magnaflow Exhaust
          Y-Pipe
          Synthetic Fluids

          Comment

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