I noticed a clunking sound coming from the rear of my car today. I took it into a parking lot and would let it roll from about 15 mph to stop and heard a click/clunk sound that was fast at 15 mph and would get slower right before I stop. Does this mean the U joints are worn out, as far as I know they have never been replaced, the car has 92000 miles. Do the U joints need to be replaced, if so, how much does a good set run for? Thanks
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U-Joint Question
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U-Joint Question
1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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could be but you could also check your tranny mount.
As for replacement u-joints, I went with GM replacements. The factory ones are installed in the driveshaft yokes using injected liquid nylon/plastic to retain them so they have to be torched out to melt the plastic/nylon. The replacement joints have clips to hold them instead.95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....
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I checked my trans mount and it appears to be solid, i replaced it nt to long ago with a prothane. I jerked the driveshaft around and it does feel like it has movement to it, so are these U joints a garage project, or should I have my buddy do them in a shop? I'm almost positive that's whats making the clunking noise.1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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The clicking noise, tied to driveshaft speed, plus some looseness in teh joint when you turn the driveshaft, would tend to indicate a U-joint problem. Replacing them is really very simple.... pull the driveshaft out and take it to a local shop. I had a self-supplied U-joint installed, after the shop melted out the stock U-joint, for $10.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Thanks for the info Injuneer,I have a weekend project now!1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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