What do you guys recommend? It looks like the seal on the bottom of the WP went and spewed coolant everywhere. Will I need a new pump or just replace gaskets? Should I do the opti too? Should I attempt this myself or should I take it somewhere to get it done? Just looking for advice from people that have done it before. Thanks guys !!
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97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDW -
Replace the water pump with a new GM pump an if the opti got all wet replace it to.Do you know how to work on things like this it is a real PITA to do so if you not work on cars let somebody do it for you. Big bucks $$$ Good luck. Blazer
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I wouldn't just jump to the conclusion that the Opti is ruined. Dry everything off, protect the Opti from further showers, start it up and see how it runs. On the other hand, if you have high miles on the car, it might make a nice weekend project.
I run the stock pump. When I built the stroker at 65K miles, I bought a new stock pump and converted to a new, vented Opti.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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doesnt he already have a vented opti with his 97?Comment
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Sure. I'm not telling him what he should do.... just telling him what I did.Originally posted by darkz711
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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After a little time to think about it, I am probably going to pull it off the road and make it a nice winter project. I was going to take it off the road in the next week or two anyways. I'll do what Injuneer said and just do the pump first and go from there. If the Opti has problems than I'll replace it after that. But I did drive it home for about 5 blocks and it drive perfectly fine
So the SS is off the road and I have a winter project, not the project I was hoping(was thinking of SFC and a cam swap). Oh well.
Does anyone know the book time on how long it would take to do the W/P?97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDWComment
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Anyone know of a place online to get a WP cheap? I guess Ive got time so Im not in a hurry.
Oh and I forgot to mention that the warranty that I had ran out on the 1st....perfect timing
sweet
97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDWComment
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Shoebox has the part #'s, typical discount prices, and the best places to buy listed on his website.
http://shbox.com/1/Parts.htm
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_JasonFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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Originally posted by NorthernSSAfter a little time to think about it, I am probably going to pull it off the road and make it a nice winter project. I was going to take it off the road in the next week or two anyways. I'll do what Injuneer said and just do the pump first and go from there. If the Opti has problems than I'll replace it after that. But I did drive it home for about 5 blocks and it drive perfectly fine So the SS is off the road and I have a winter project, not the project I was hoping(was thinking of SFC and a cam swap). Oh well.
Does anyone know the book time on how long it would take to do the W/P?
Why not do your cam swap while your at it if you have sufficient $$$. You have to tear off the water pump and opti to do a cam anyways so you'd be partially there.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.Comment
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Ive really been considering this too. Ive got a guy that will do this for pretty cheap and he would let me help him outOriginally posted by 94 formula
So........you never know.....except my wallet 
And thanks Injuneer those links are perfect !!!!97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDWComment
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If he'll let you help him then do it if you have the money. To do a cam swap and all the supporting components in an LT1 you need to pull the radiator, WP, opti, coil, AIR pump, intake, timing chain, timing gears, valve covers, and oil pump gear. Those are the major components if I'm missing any someone please correct me. Its honestly not that hard it looks intimidating but its not that bad once you get started. While your in there just do it all now so you don't have to worry about it down the road.Originally posted by NorthernSSIve really been considering this too. Ive got a guy that will do this for pretty cheap and he would let me help him out So........you never know.....except my wallet
And thanks Injuneer those links are perfect !!!!1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.Comment
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Yeah if money permits than I will definately be doing a cam swap this winter. Doing a WP instal you almost already have all the components off so Id be half way there. Just gotta check the $$$ situation
97 SS #C007
Polo Green w/ tan leather A4
SLP headers, Loudmouth, Koni SA, Spohn LCA, Spohn PHR, Spohn relo brackets, pro-kit, B&M Stage II Shift Kit, air foil, 160 therm, LT4 KM, BFG KDWComment
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Hey
How many miles are on your car? I just did my water pump and opti on my LT1. I had 54,000 miles on the car. I took the opti apart, it didn't get wet inside, but the spark terminals were starting to get a little corroded, all it is is just a big distributer cap, nothing more. So if you would replace your distributor cap at 54,000 then think about doing the opti. Mine as well as long as you are in there.
My local parts house had both the water pump, and the new opti (Cap and rotor, along with the optical half). I think I paid around $100 for the water pump?
Also, replace the large optispark drive gasket that is pressed into the timing cover, as well as the smaller water pump drive gasket that is pressed into the timing cover.
To get them out, use a seal puller on the optispark drive gasket, and drill two small holes in the water pump drive gasket, thread two sheet metal screws into the holes, and then start yanking until it comes out.
I pressed the opti gasket in with a block of wood and a hammer, and I tapped the water pump drive gasket in with a socket.
Heres a pic of how I did it!
http://www.f-body.com/forum/attachme...achmentid=1021
Hope that helps ya.
...TimComment
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Be careful during the Water pump drive gasket install - if you tap it in place with a socket, the seal turns inside-out and splits - destroying the seal. Joe offered the following advise and it worked like a champ! I got it on the first try this way: When putting on the new seal cut a 1in X 3in piece of plastic from a 2L soda bottle and wrap it around the shaft. Make sure to lube the seal very well then slide the seal over the plastic place a deep well socket behind it and carefully and evenly tap it in with a hammer. Once its in use a pair of plyers to remove the plastic and it will be on without your seal getting ripped up by the splines or going on inside out. I hope this helps.
Darrin C
'97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....Comment
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Yah
Yah good thought, I did it that way also. It worked great.
...TimComment
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