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  • Removing Emblems

    I want to take off the TRANS AM emblems on my doors and the firebird on the nose and repaint them, can anyone offer tips or techniques on removal and reinstallation, or is it even possible to take them off and put them back on.


    SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

  • #2
    Use a hair dryer to heat the decals up. This softens the adhesive and you should be able to carefully pry them off.
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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    • #3
      What would be ideal to reattach?

      Originally posted by Dave M
      Use a hair dryer to heat the decals up. This softens the adhesive and you should be able to carefully pry them off.


      SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Jeanius
        What would be ideal to reattach?
        3M trim adhesive.
        LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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        • #5
          This is what I would recommend using. http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
          They sell it at office supply stores like Office Depot and Office max. They use it to put name tags on the wall. I don't like the black trim tape they sell at the car parts store. They let go due to thermal expansion from sitting in the sun. This stuff works. I keep a roll for odd jobs.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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          • #6
            This is actually better (because of the environment)


            http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us
            NBM '02 Z, SLP Lid, Corsa Cat-Back
            (SOLD 07/03/2004)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Coop '02Z
              This is actually better (because of the environment)


              http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us
              I tired that stuff with body molding and it let go after about a month.
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                I tired that stuff with body molding and it let go after about a month.
                Its all about the preparation. If you remove all of the old adhesive including the glue, then retape the emblem/molding, it will last much longer. 3M also has has an adhesive promoter that they reccomend to use but you dont have to. We do and that stuff works great.
                Greg W. in West Michigan
                1992 Formula WS6-A/R Rims, Stock L05 swap, Former Abuse Victim
                1983 Z28-Parts car- *Sold*
                1984 Z28-305 HO Auto *Sold*
                1986 Camaro-V-6 5Spd *Sold*
                1984 Camaro-V-6 Auto *Sold*
                <Motor out

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by carguy100200
                  Its all about the preparation. If you remove all of the old adhesive including the glue, then retape the emblem/molding, it will last much longer. 3M also has has an adhesive promoter that they reccomend to use but you dont have to. We do and that stuff works great.
                  That is true but not in my case. I tried cleaning the molding with everything including MEK. It's hard to get an adhesive to stick to polypropylene.

                  The biggest issue with getting a tape to stick to a car is the thermal expansion from sitting in the sun. The molding expanded much faster than the metal and literally ripped the glue off itself. An emblem will heat much faster than the steel body too because it has no way for it to dissipate the heat except for the air. The tape is not a thermal path. I watched the molding stick on the ends yet buckle in the middle from the expansion. I was just amazed.
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                    I watched the molding stick on the ends yet buckle in the middle from the expansion. I was just amazed.
                    I find that statement funny.

                    Christopher Teng

                    1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                    Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                    B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                    Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                    Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                    Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                    F-Body Dirty Dozen

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