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More pics of my freshly painted Ram Air hood

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  • More pics of my freshly painted Ram Air hood

    Here is another zip file with two picks of the hood after painting. As before, they are a little dark because of no flash, but I am excited. When I have better light, I would like to take some picks of the grill inserts that I made; they turned out very well.
    Attached Files
    '77 K5 rock-crawler project
    '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
    '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
    '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
    '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
    My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  • #2
    How did you control the dust in that garage so it doesnt get in the paint? I suppose you could just cover it in thick clearcoat and wetsand it smooth.

    Comment


    • #3
      Where did you get the a paint? I have a black Firebird 97, and it was a few spots i liked to fix up, i got it used. just woundering how easy to match the paint and all.

      97 Firebird, 3.8 5 spd

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by tabahr
        How did you control the dust in that garage so it doesnt get in the paint? I suppose you could just cover it in thick clearcoat and wetsand it smooth.
        Dust definitely gets in it. I could have done a much better job of prepping the garage this time, but it turned out. It is best to leave the dirt unless you have a day or two to let the dust settle. I sometimes set up a plastic tent, and wet down the walls. You can also use a fast drying clear coat. After buffing, I rarely see anything in it. If I am doing something that I really care about, I rent a booth which is usually around $120 for a half day, but it requires prepping and trailering the vehicle to the facility which is a pain. If I am just doing a panel or spot repairing, I don't worry about it too much. Whatever gets in it usually comes out OK.
        '77 K5 rock-crawler project
        '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
        '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
        '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
        '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
        My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

        I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
        Thomas Jefferson

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Zippo910
          Where did you get the a paint? I have a black Firebird 97, and it was a few spots i liked to fix up, i got it used. just woundering how easy to match the paint and all.
          There are always a few paint supply stores in most major cities. I go to a place called Advance Paint in Denver. I typically use a lower line of base/clear of PPG called Omni. Unless, I rent a booth, I don't use PPG. Most paint shops carry low grade synthetic enamels, high grade Alics, and lower and main grade of base/clear systems. This shop even has some of the European high solid paints that can cost in the $800s for all of the products in the system to do one car...OUCH!

          Your car has a paint code where you can have paint mixed to that code specifications. Now, this doesn't factor in wear and fading of your vehicle. Some paints are easy to match, and some are extremely difficult. I painted a hood for a friend with a pewter Envoy. There were four variations of that color for one year. It came out a little dark, but not bad. usually, when you paint, a panel, the surround panels are feathered to create a better match. I didn't bother with this on my fiberglass hood. Usually, the fiberglass comes with imperfections and distortions which are difficult to completely fix on the first cut. I will repaint the hood with the car at some point in time, in a paint booth, with PPG; but until then, I am shooting the hood and bumper covers.
          '77 K5 rock-crawler project
          '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
          '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
          '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
          '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
          My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

          I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
          Thomas Jefferson

          Comment


          • #6
            My friends paints in a garage and just wets the floor to keep dust down.
            96TA

            Comment


            • #7
              Sure would like to see some pics with it installed.

              Since you guys are talking about paint, I was wondering.

              When I grew up ins Switzerland our neigbour had a huge body shop. He had a work area where they repaired the bodies and then a paint area which was also a huge oven.

              After the cars were painted they closed the oven and heated it up. I cannot remember how long or what the temperatures were.

              Lately I've been paying attention to all the body shops around and trying to figure out which one would be good to have a car professionally repainted. I didn't go inside but just looked as I drove by. I haven't seen one yet which has an oven.

              Why don't they use an oven over here? Is it overkill or do they have better paint jobs over in Europe?
              97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


              1and1 Web Hosting

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              • #8
                If memory serves me right, Kayle's Collision here in Madison Wi. uses an oven to cure paint.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you don't cure with an oven it takes the paint 3 months to cure. I f you apply wax before it cures the paint will crack like spider veins. It is best to use oven but I have had good luck without.
                  96TA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Black97
                    Sure would like to see some pics with it installed.
                    I will definitely take some pics when I get it installed.
                    '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                    '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                    '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                    '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                    '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                    My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                    Thomas Jefferson

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tabahr
                      If memory serves me right, Kayle's Collision here in Madison Wi. uses an oven to cure paint.
                      I think it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Baking the paint evacuates all of the chemicals, and brings the paint to completely solid state in a short period of time which adds to the brilliance of the paint along with hardening it. Most shops are not going to have the facilities to support this along with the fact that most repairs are spot repairs anyway. There are a few custom shops that bring complete cars all of the way down, and put some fabulous paint jobs on them that cost thousands.

                      I just put down several coats of clear, let it dry, color-sand it, buff it, and let it sit for awhile before I use it. You can use glazes on fresh paint, but stay away from waxes for about two months. If you take care of it, it will last a long long time. After I get my bumper covers done, I will color-sand the entire car, and buff it all to match, it will look very nice but it won't be show quality, but that is OK...I just want to race the thing, and have fun with it. My '79 is my show car, and it will be the recipient of the good stuff, and I will use a paint booth for that car.
                      '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                      '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                      '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                      '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                      '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                      My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                      I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                      Thomas Jefferson

                      Comment

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