Best RPM Shift Point without losing Power

[EquatorHeat00]

Whats the best rpm to shift at? Stock shift points for 1 to 2 is 5700 rpm's, and 2 to 3 at 5700 rpm's. Stock rev limiter at 5800 rpm's. At What rpm to you start to lose power? Want to change my shift points, but will this higher rpm cause damage to the engine?
Thinking +3 from 1 to 2, and +2 from 2 to 3. Leaving 3 to 4 alone. Raise rev limiter to 6200 rpm's. (Rev limiter can be adjusted from 5500 to 6600 rpm's.)
1 mph = 110 rpm's with 2.73 gears which I have.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

The way to really do that is at the track. It seems like you have a stock engine with 94,000 on the valve springs, you aren't going to make any more power in the mid-to-high 5000 range, I would guess. Now with new springs and a different cam, it might be a different story (up to the point that the heads & the rest of the setup start to hold you back).You can try your plan and see if your ET goes down, but remember to try to make everything else the same or a hot vs. cold intake manifold can skew the results more than your shiftpoint change will. If you can't get on a dyno to see where your car makes power - that is a big help, or you can maybe dig up a stock dyno curve and use it for a guideline. There are also some computer race programs that help with when you should shift.

On any shift you want to try to upshift into the rpm/powerband of the next higher gear if possible, and sometimes that means going a little past the power peak at the gear you are in so you fall back into the sweet spot upon the gear change. You are trying to get the most average power through the gear changes. It depends on the spread of the gears, the rear end gear, tire dia, and the torque band of the engine. Naturally, it is easier for a 6 speed guy to stay in the power band than it is for an A4. Also why it is harder to build an engine for an A4 because you are trying for a flat torque curve which means trying to be efficient for a larger portion of the operating range of rpms. A stall converter can help keep the engine in this area also. On your car, since you have only 4 speeds and first to second is a big jump, you have wind first out a little or you might bog the shift. But 2-3 is less of a jump and so on. Anyway, you have the right idea to start, but you might find out it wants to go the other way. At some point you have to try it and see what happens, but you also need to have a way to measure the results. The SOTP method doesn't always work

[toddwirges]

I would leave the shift points and rev limiter alone on a mostly stock LT1.

They don't pull up there, it's not worth it. LT1's make good torque down low. The shift point advice is different for them than LS1's.

[EquatorHeat00]

I'm leaving it alone at stock settings.