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  • valve lash

    mornin guys. i got into my motor yesterday and went back throught my rocker arms cause i didnt tighten them enough when i fixed my intake leak. well i followed the book i says to tighten the rockers till the pushrods get snug and then follow up by turning them another 3\4 to set them. did them in the order that i was suppost to. put her back together started her up and she sounded great till i went for a test drive. she dont tap when i excell but now she is kinda doggie and lacking power and dont quite sound right. are they over tighted or what. my bro in law says when he did his 350 he just went a 1\4 turn past tight. i also was running 20\50 oil wich gives me high oil pressure. bout 60 when she is cold and 40 at a stop. should i change the oil to lessen the pressure on the lifters or take it apart. it wont take long to take her a part. bout 2 hrs last night in the dark.

    thanks

    richard

  • #2
    this is kinda a follow up. i took the car to my bro in law and he drove her and said that it sounds good. sounds like its got a cam in it.( i put a 2.8 cam in it and was under the assumption that it was true stock but i think guess its a little bigger). The car sounds a little more throuty, Its only a v-6 so it dont have all that much for power. i dont know guess im gunna leave it be and hope it blows up so i can justify buying a bigger motor to the ole ball and chain.

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    • #3
      You dont just tighten them like you said in your post. It's not that simple.

      Before you tighten each rocker, you need to rotate the motor so its valve is completely shut. Once you see the motor is in the proper position, you can then tighten it until it snugs up and add another 3/4.

      If you just go ahead and tighten them all without the motor in the correct position for each one it is going to be all screwed up.
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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      • #4
        sorry if i was a little vage. i followed the prosedure in the book. got one on tdc and set the proper valve for the proper cylinder, then rotated the motor 360 Deg. #4 on tdc and did the other valves. after taking the car to my asc certifyed mechanic he says that it dont sound like there is a floating valve. that i may need to change out my plugs and reset the timing cause now that i got everything tightend down they way its supposed to be the new cam is giving it a bit of a loap, so i went out today and jacked with the timming and it seems to run a bit better. i also extended the exaust out from under the car. (previous owner cut the cat out and put a glass pack in is place and left it open) The car has quite a bit more power than before. then i let the ole lady drive it and well it came back with the new extention gone. (It was only on by a c clamp) i guess she hit a high spot and away it went. so now its loud in the cab. gunna get some more pipe and weld it on this weekend. was hoping the temp fix would last till friday but no such luck.

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