Fuel filter replacement on '88 Coupe 305 TBI Camaro

[camarodiehard]

Hi guys,

I prepared this with good effort:

1. Read both Chilton's and Hane's manuals
2. Read tech boards on F-body sites regarding fuel filter replacement
3. Tried/ did everything everybody said.

But did not succeed.

Fuel line kept on leaking...about 1 gallon before I called it quits.

What I did:

1. Relieve fuel pressure to avoid spillage /prolong leakage:

- My fuse box has 2 fuses with FP (fuel pump) inscribed. Took them out before starting the engine, like they said. Unscrewed fuel cap. Started the engine. Ran a few minutes. Never stopped:

- 1 20 amp fuse with FP/Fan inscribed (took it out)

- 1 10 amp fuse with Inj. 2 /FP inscribed (took it out)

3. In another try, did what a guy said to take out the fuse contained in the black sleeve located just facing the battery and pinned clearly on the fender/side (passenger). Of course, this turned off the engine. But did not stop the leak.

4. Put on back fuel cap. Did not work to stop leakage.

5. Took out, also, to test, 10 amp fuse inscribed Inj. 1: stopped the engine /didn't stop the leakage

6. Mine's got an in-line type filter (round stainless steel housing)

Please speak out / Thanks

(It's pretty hot right now up North in Montreal, Quebec, Canada...)


Patrick Cyr
'88 coupe 305 TBI Camaro

[tabahr]

I just used the pressure valve on the fuel rail to release the pressure.. Does the TBI have one?? If not, this is no big deal. Just put a fluid catch tub under the filter and work fast. no smoking!!

[camarodiehard]

Valve on fuel rail

Valve on fuel rail?

Don't know, I'll have to check it out.

I screwed back on my old filter, since only one nut was taken out. Motor goes fine.

Still am confused. Thanks.

[tabahr]

Keep in mind... It is going to leak due to gravity. The filter is well below the level of the tank. Just try not to get the gas in your eyes.

Good luck... It's really not that hard. Just deal with the dripping gas and get it done.

[camarodiehard]

Dripping gas

Sorry don't want to do it that way.

There must be a better way...Isn't that a commercial... : )

The gas leaked like after you had a good beer...seriously

Anyway, I can wait a bit, not urgent. My old filter runs fine, looks good. But I still want to put a fresh one. It,s just that it frustrating to follow by the letter the manuals and suggestions and crap happens...

Maybe it's a bit different on 4th gen. than on 3rd..... Probably easier...



Thanks and am still listening

[BowlingSS]

Re: Dripping gas

Originally posted by camarodiehard
Sorry don't want to do it that way.

There must be a better way...Isn't that a commercial... : )
The gas leaked like after you had a good beer...seriously
Anyway, I can wait a bit, not urgent. My old filter runs fine, looks good. But I still want to put a fresh one. It,s just that it frustrating to follow by the letter the manuals and suggestions and crap happens...
Maybe it's a bit different on 4th gen. than on 3rd..... Probably easier...
Thanks and am still listening

Here is the instructions for a 4th gen located at:
www.installuniversity.com
Pictures did not copy.

Fuel Filter Replacement

Tools you will need:

Floor jack with jack stands or ramps*
16 mm wrench
20 mm wrench or crescent wrench
5/16 wrench
Fuel Filter of your choice**
Old Shop Rags
Catch pan
Expect approximately 30 minute – 60 minute change time.

*This is your choice. We used our set of Rhino Ramps©.
**We used an AC Delco fuel filter GF627 or the GM part number is 25121942
Date: May 29, 2000
Car: 1999 LS1 Z28 Camaro
Installers: Eric & Kelly Barger
Email: help@installuniversity.com

People who helped us from major tech talk to general advice:

Elmer Boggs (eboggs_jkvl)
Matt (CrkHedMat)
Larry (PaiN)



When purchasing, viewing, using, and/or any other method applied to this publication you agree to the following statements. You, your next of kin, heirs or assigns release www.installuniversity.com, all other persons associated in the making, production, participation, and sale of this publication. Rephrased in plain English: When you purchase this CD, book, or view this web page you, your next of kin, heirs or assigns agree not to sue any associated persons with the publication for any accident or damage in ANY form (mental or physical to your car and/or yourself) because of this publication or your failure to heed proper safety, maintenance and/or modification procedures. You also agree that your next of kin, heirs or assigns cannot sue all persons associated in the making, production, participation, and sale of this publication.

Perform all these installs at your own risk. Know how to use all of your shop equipment and take necessary safety precautions when performing ANY modifications and or maintenance items to your vehicle. Seek the advice of a paid professional and do not substitute this publication for the advice of a paid professional. This product is how we accomplished our installs and is not meant to be carved in stone. We are not responsible for a mistake, misprint, or any other error found in this guide. This guide is intended as a supplement and not to be your only source of information.

Purpose: This is a regular maintenance item you should perform every ten to twenty thousand miles. This filter change gets overlooked quite a bit and most people probably never worry about it. So help out your car and change the filter.

Preface: Before you start into this install be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment. This install will leak gasoline! No matter what you do you will have gasoline spill on the ground underneath the car. Do not breath the fumes, smoke, or start your car during this install. Perform this installation outside and NOT in a garage near any electrical or gas appliances! Take your time and be careful.

1. We backed our car up on our set of Rhino Ramps and chocked the front wheels. The ramps will raise the car a sufficient amount but it was a relatively tight fit for us under the car.

2. Take your keys out of the ignition.

3. Raise the hood and remove the negative battery cable using a 5/16 wrench (see red arrows in Figure 1). Make sure the cable terminals are not touching anything but "air".

Figure 1


4. Now you want to pull the fuel pump fuse. Locate the fuse box cover where the fuse pump fuse resides (see blue arrow in Figure 2). You want to pull the cover off from the side closest to the rear of the car (see red arrow in Figure 2).

Figure 2


5. Now locate the fuel pump fuse (see blue arrow in Figure 4). You will need to pull this fuse out. We found it hard to pull the fuse out so we used a pair of pliers to do the dirty work. Just be careful not to crush the fuse if you use the pliers! This will ensure that the fuel pump does not activate while you are performing this install.

Figure 3


6. Remove the gas cap (see Figure 4).

Figure 4


7. To insure that we have relieved all the pressure off the fuel system, you will need to purge the Schrader valve located on top of the engine. Locate the Schrader valve (see blue arrow in Figure 5).

Figure 5


8. Unscrew (counterclockwise) the cap off the Schrader valve (see Figure 6).

Figure 6


9. We used disposable shop towels and a screw driver to purge the Schrader valve. We simply took the screwdriver and punched it through the center of the towels (see Figure 7). Gently press the screwdriver up against the metal tab (much like releasing pressure for a tire). Be sure you wrap the paper towels around the valve so you don't get gas everywhere. Once you have completed relieving the pressure at the Schrader valve screw the cap back on the valve and dispose of the rags in a safe manner.

Figure 7


10. Before performing this step make sure you do this on an engine that is cold and not at or near operating temperature. The Schrader valve looks much like a valve stem on a tire. It acts in exactly the same manner as well. Place the towels around the end of the fuel rail where the Schrader valve is located and press the screwdriver gently on the metal stem in the middle of the rail (see Figure 8). Gasoline will spray out of the fuel rail for a few seconds. Be sure you have the towels around the Schrader valve to catch the spray.

Figure 8


11. Now you need to locate the fuel filter. It resides just in front of the rear left wheel just inside the sub-frames (see blue arrow in Figure 9).

Figure 9


12. Have lots of old rags or a catch pan underneath the fuel filter ready to soak up or catch any spilled gas. Locate the release tabs on the gas tank side of the filter (see blue arrow in Figure 10). Squeeze down on the tabs and then remove the rubber fuel hose from the filter. You will have to pull just a little on the hose to get it to come completely off. You should experience some gasoline drain from the fuel assembly. The line may drain for 10 minutes or more so be very patient. This is a good time to get out from underneath the car and let the gas drain. Gasoline fumes are VERY DANGEROUS to breathe so please do not inhale them.

Figure 10


13. Place the 16mm wrench on the nut on the fuel line side. Then take your 20 mm wrench and place it on the nut on the fuel filter (see Figure 11). We used a small crescent wrench and it worked just fine. You will see more fuel leak out again, so be careful. Once you get the nut on the fuel line loose, slide it back along the fuel line. Remove the fuel filter and place it in the catch pain or on the rags (it will still have gasoline inside it so be careful).

Figure 11


14. Replace the filter with your filter in reverse to how you took the old filter off. Be sure you line the release tabs back up when installing the rubber hose back into the filter.

15. Remove all your tools, rags, parts, and catch pan from underneath the car. Wipe up any mess you left behind. Again, please be careful when underneath the car because the fumes from the gasoline are VERY DANGEROUS.

16. Wash your hands, arms, and any other part of your body that touched gasoline. You do not want gasoline on your hands while touching the battery cables, fuse, or the inside of your car.

17. Place the gas cap back on the car and shut the lid. Replace the Fuel Pump fuse into the fuse bank. Place the cover back on the fuse box. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

18. We PUSHED our car off the ramps and moved it so the car would not be over the spot where the filter was changed. Look at the mess we had after we pushed the car off of the ramps (see Figure 12). Gasoline was everywhere!

Figure 12


19. Place your key in the ignition and turn the key to the on position (see white arrow in Figure 13). Wait approximately five (5) seconds and then turn the key back to the "off" position. Repeat this step two (2) more times. You want to make sure the fuel pump turns on and places gasoline back in the system. Start the car and make sure you have no fuel leaks around the filter. If you have no fuel leaks then you are safe and your car is ready to drive. If you have a leak then make sure everything is securely fit and you have the nuts tight.

Figure 13


Comments: We could still see the yellowish color inside the filter housing on the filter. This is a good sign. Some people have reported some pretty dirty filters. This is a good mod to do every 10k or so miles.

[camarodiehard]

Mine's a 3rd gen.

THanks for all the info but mine's an '88. Anyway, 2 guys pointed out the 3 wires near the rear axle. You unplugged them and crank the motor + unscrew gas cap. Should go fine. I'll keep you posted soon. Thanks again and good luck

[tabahr]

Re: Re: Dripping gas

Originally posted by BowlingSS
Here is the instructions for a 4th gen located at:
www.installuniversity.com
Preface: Before you start into this install be sure you know how to use all of your shop equipment. This install will leak gasoline! No matter what you do you will have gasoline spill on the ground underneath the car. Do not breath the fumes, smoke, or start your car during this install. Perform this installation outside and NOT in a garage near any electrical or gas appliances! Take your time and be careful.

You can unplug all the wires and fuses you want. You cannot change the laws of physics. Lots of gas IS going to spill on the ground due to gravity and siphoning. The only thing I can suggest to slow it is to put a vicegrips over the hose to pinch it off. If it is a regular rubber hose try this, if it is a plastic high pressure line I wouldnt. Or... you could take a bolt the same diameter at the fuel filter bung and jam it in the hose to plug it. There really is no better way. Have you ever siphoned out a waterbed or aquqrium?? this is the same thing!

[camarodiehard]

2nd try, didn't succeed

Update:

Hi, I unplugged the 3 wire harness situated right up the rear axle. Easy, take out plastic locking pin, then pull out the sleeve/harness. I unplugged it twice: once with motor NOT running, cranked the motor twice, didn't start. And once with motor running, pulled it out, instantly stopped motor. On both circumstances, it was suppose to stop the motor but after a delay only. To let the fuel run out. Anway, I went under, unscrewed one nut and fuel, after a short time, came out and leaked and leaked. I let it leak a good 5 minute but the flow did not diminish. At that time, there was about 24 oz. So I thought, this is not working.

Finally, I re-tried drying up the line by pulling out the 2 fuses with FP (fuel pump) on them and started the motor and let it ran a good 6 - 9 minutes. But motor didn't stop. It seems the TBI has 2 injectors. Each of them has a separate fuse. But one of them is linked (injector #2) with the FP. The other fuse for the FP is linked with the fan. Anyway, it seems injector 1 gets fuel mechanically or not with the fuel pump aid because all FP fuses were pulled out and motor kept on running pretty good considering only one injector was on and the FP out. Go figure???????? Maybe a mechanical engineer/good mechanic can explain this one to us.

On all tries, I unscrewed th gas cap.

Even with gravity, I still think it's not normal that all this leakage is happenig. Maybe syphoning causes this leakage, if it exists it means that pressure is still in there, the exact thing I'm trying to take out.

So, here I am, with the old filter still in place, working well and not leaking...Thanks and other replies welcomed

[tabahr]

Re: 2nd try, didn't succeed

Originally posted by camarodiehard
Update:

Even with gravity, I still think it's not normal that all this leakage is happenig. Maybe syphoning causes this leakage, if it exists it means that pressure is still in there, the exact thing I'm trying to take out.

Siphoning does not require any pressure. Use a bucket of water and a hose to test it yourself. Put a full bucket up on a table and put a hose in it. Now suck on the other end of the hose until it is full of water, then drop it on the floor, below the botom of the bucket. The bucket will empty completely with NO PRESSURE on it. Your gas tank is the bucket, your fuel line is the hose. These are the laws of physics my friend and you cannot get around it. You know the job, you have the answers. Why not just use something to plug the hose if it offends you that much??

This really isnt that hard. I cannot help any more. Maybe you should just pay someone to change it.

[camarodiehard]

Tracy

Thanks for your reply. I know how syphoning works, I've done this before. Maybe I'll have to plug the line. I'll wait and see. Have a nice day

[camarodiehard]

My saga ends here

(I read both Hanes and Chiltons, neither was complete in explanations or steps)

Hi! Good news, I changed my fuel filter . Here's what I did:

1. Jackstanded car , front and back, driver's side
2. Loosened gas cap, let it vent
3. Took out fuel pump fuses, 2 (FP)
4. Started motor, let it ran 2-3 minutes (inj.#1 running on oil pressure mecanism, fail-safe...)
5. Pulled out fuse in black sleeve facing battery and pinned clearly near fender
6. Killed motor instantly
7. Fuel pressure was then releived to the fullest
8. Took adjustable wrench (wescot) and 16 mm wrench key
9. Took 10 mm socket, socket driver and 3'' extension
10. Took 2 small pans (plastic)
11. Put on latex gloves, cotton head cap and goggles
12. Went under
13. Wescot on fixed nut welded to fuel filter (FF)
14. Wrench key on moveable nut (MN) centered on fuel line (O-Rings?? sorry , not a pro...)
15. Loosened MN, motor side, by counter forcing wescot and wrench key (pretty easy, no rust, lucky...)
16. Minimal fuel spill
17. Same loosening action on MN , tank side
18. Again , minimal fuel spill, it even diminished after about 20 seconds!
19. Loosened small bolt , 10mm, on metal clamp that holds the filter in place (easy, again no rust, lucky....)
20. Made quick moves to swap new one in proper flow direction , like indicated on Fram filter...
21. Old one : AC Delco part # GF-481. Maybe the original FF, who knows...?!
22. Tightened reasonably MN (O-rings ?) in place, nice and clean
23. Smiled inside while wiping underside
24. Tightened bolt on metal clamp
25. Job done
26. Pulled myself up from under and did indian victory dance with neighbor...
27. Went for a ride, now pulls better, quicker and smoother...no kidding

Am very grateful for everybody's help and counsel, thanks

[N20LT4Bird]

Next time, just crawl under the car like a real tough guy, unscrew the thing and let the fuel fly. Let it run into your armpits (thats the best). A little gasoline in the eyes or down the shirt never hurt anyone.

[N20LT4Bird]

also, please tell me your kidding about the latex gloves, cap and goggles. Pleeeease................

[camarodiehard]

Gotta admit...true. Not a pro... Gear was to protect myself...but I'm not asking you to understand... Best of luck p.s. good replies though in 1st thread