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coolant after w p change?

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  • coolant after w p change?

    I just replaced the water pump and I m not sure what kind of coolant should I use

    When i drained the cooling system it was a mess in there, rusty coolant and all looked almost like mud, so I want to flush it, what s the best way to do that? at the minute there is water insted of coolant in the radiator
    93 t/a A4 3.23s
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  • #2
    Ok,you can hook up a garden hose to one of the heater hose inlets,with a clamp.You say only water,was in the block/rad. Turn on the hose, and let it flush until the water comes out clean. This will clean your block and your rad. As for coolant, antifreeze, 50 percent water and 50 percent antifreeze.It has worked for me in the past. Onboth sides of the block, there are bolts that come out, take them out as well,if you have not allready .good luck. jack.
    JackZ28
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    • #3
      Originally posted by TRANS AM IN EUROPE
      I just replaced the water pump and I m not sure what kind of coolant should I use

      When i drained the cooling system it was a mess in there, rusty coolant and all looked almost like mud, so I want to flush it, what s the best way to do that? at the minute there is water insted of coolant in the radiator
      Dexcool turns into a dirty, muddy looking when it ages. Many guys here might suggest yu stick with dexcool, while others like the greenstuff. I run dexcool personally. I just flush frequently.

      Christopher Teng

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      • #4
        I did the waterpump,radiator, thermo replacement and I switched over to the 50/50 green and that special water stuff .. damn I can't remember ...
        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

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        • #5
          Stick with the Dexcool. Just make sure you actually mix it 50/50 with water. Lots of people add too much water and that is when the electrolysis occurs and sludges the system.

          Also make sure you completely bleed the system with the two bleeder screws.

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          • #6
            now I remember .. distilled water ... not regular water ....

            man only took me two days to remember ... but I did it
            97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
            In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

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            • #7
              I've got 4.5 years on the Dex-Cool in my 2001 Silverado - no signs of problems. Will change it at 5 years. Had it in the Formula for 3 years before the stroker builup, and now about to change it after 5 years in the stroker - no problems.

              Flush it completely using the block drain plugs, make sure your heater core is flushed out using the garden hose, fill system 50/50 with distilled water (some Dex-Cool is pre-mixed 50/50), do NOT use the GM leak pellets, and bleed air from system per factory recommended procedures. Make sure you have a radiator cap in very good condition.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                it is very hard to find dexcool over here in the uk hopefully some one will put me right if i am wrong but your best bet for getting the corect coolant is to go to your local vauxhall dealer and ask them for the coolant that they use in monaro/gto as this runs a ls1/2 motor and i am guessing this uses the same coolant as the lt1 best of luck and avoid cheap and nasty motor factors stuff
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