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Disconnecting fuel lines

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  • Disconnecting fuel lines

    Is the only way to do this using the fuel line disconnector tool rec in the repair manual?


    SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

  • #2
    Try this it is out of shoeboexs site http://shbox.com/1/quick_connect.jpg hope it helps. Blazer

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    • #3
      If you mean the connections at the fuel rails at the drivers side of the intake manifold yes, you need the tool as show in the pic above.
      95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....

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      • #4
        i beleive i used some plyers or a screw driver...somthing along those lines. i k now i didnt use a fuel line disconnect tool.
        96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Jeanius
          Is the only way to do this using the fuel line disconnector tool rec in the repair manual?
          On my 94 there were 4 little springs that pushed out on retainers that held it in there. I think I could have gotten it off by messing around with some small flat head screwdrivers but instead of wasting the time I just picked up one at Advance Auto for like $3 and now I have it every time I need it for the rest of my life.
          1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

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          • #6
            I picked up a kit at kragen for 12, has 6 different sizes. I was doing the Intake Manifold leak repair, PITA! Thanks for the input!


            SOLD 1995 Trans AM 6 Speed 68k Miles - Ram Air, Borla Cat-Back, AR TTII's, JL Audio W6v2 Stealthbox and 500/1 MonoBlock Amp, Alpine Component Speaker Systems

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            • #7
              You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines. Lift the rails off, open the plastic ring that holds the fuel lines to the cover for the throttle body quadrent, and flip the rails back on the windshield, with the lines intact.... no mess, no chance of damaging the connectors.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                Fred's right.. But buy the tool anyway, It's cheap and it should be a standard tool in everyone's box. Any other way may damage the coupling.

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