LS1 hood swap

[Rekisito]

As much as I love the WS6 because of it's styling, I cannot afford one because of insurance costs. Now I understand that the regular TA isn't much cheaper, but every little bit helps. Sooo... question is, will the "ram air" hood off the WS6 bolt right in place of the regular hood?

Ah, and I've read things about the ram air not actually being funtional on the WS6, if this is true then what the hell is giving it 10-20 more HP?

[FRMLAV8]

Yes the hood will bolt right up to a TA.

Yes the ram air is functional, kind of. It pulls air from in front of the nose, through the ducts and into the air box. So essentialy it is a cold air induction kit (that is where you get 15-20 HP)

There is some discusion as to how well it actually works, and I think most agree the "Ram- Air" doesn't actually kick in until you are around 80 or 90 MPH.

[Craig 2000 TA]

It should also be mentioned that on a true ram air WS6 TA the air box which holds the air filter is different so if you want to convert your TA to a ram air system then you would need a functional hood, which not all after market ones are, and you would need the air box assembly which essentially just has a larger air opening in the front allowing more air to enter.

[markd79ta]

Or, you can do what I did. I bought a USBody hood and cut out the inlets along with the baffle boxes. I glassed in my own grills, and now I am making the airbox. I just finished painting the thing, and now I am in the buffing and finishing process. Anyhow, the air is a direct shot right into the airbox...it should be interesting to see what it does. There are several pics of it that I have posted in the last few days. Here it is, but you can't see the inlet grills very well in the photo especially with my crumby digital camera.

They do make the Ram-Air hood for the LS1 '98-up, but if you don't know how to work with them, it would cost a small fortune to have it done. Basically, if you don't go with an SLP, you are looking at a lot of work to make it a factory fit and finish hood. Suncoast Creations hoods are complete along with being able to buy the airbox and heat extractors. However, I have heard there is some work to be done on those to make them straight which is ok if it is something you do. There are some other fiberglass companies that make them like USbody, but there is a lot of drilling, tapping, grinding, and cutting to make them fit. Additionally, the inlets are completely closed which means that it is up to you to cut them open depending on your application. I thought about using the baffle boxes, but then I decided a direct shot is better, and I will make 100% blocks that can be bolted to the grills to prevent water from coming in if it rains or when I wash it.

[JeffY]

If you want the HP increase,get a better exhaust. That's where 99% of the HP increase is from. The hood works great at 200 MPH!

[Ryan96WS6]

I don't understand why your insurance would be that much or any different. I have Progressive, and when I was getting quotes before buying a TA the WS6 didn't matter. The year mattered the most (newer costs more) otherwise they just wanted to know V6 or V8. I never thought I would find a WS6 I could afford insurance wasn't the issue.
Anyway, the ram air hood is worth it for the look, not the power. Go with the exhaust for the power as was already mentioned.

Ryan

[Rekisito]

I really had planned on gutting out the cats on the stock exhaust while I pay the car off. Would doing this conflict with the PCM in anyway? I thought I saw something at LS1-motorsports a while ago about that.

[JeffY]

Originally posted by Rekisito
I really had planned on gutting out the cats on the stock exhaust while I pay the car off. Would doing this conflict with the PCM in anyway? I thought I saw something at LS1-motorsports a while ago about that.

Save yourself trouble-OBD will setl SES light. And if your state has emission checks, you'll never pass.