Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Returning leak

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Returning leak

    That darn pinion seal is leaking again It was from the Ratech seal kit and was installed with the new gears. We are going to replace it with the GM seal instead of Ratech. Any ideas on why it began leaking again and if I need a new crush sleeve?
    1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!


  • #2
    put some wheel bearing grease on the yoke be4 u install it. maybe it "burned" up from the yoke?
    2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

    old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by blackthunder50
      That darn pinion seal is leaking again It was from the Ratech seal kit and was installed with the new gears. We are going to replace it with the GM seal instead of Ratech. Any ideas on why it began leaking again and if I need a new crush sleeve?
      Did you change the rear end fluid after you ran with the new gears for a little? If not you'll have a lot of metal shavings built up inside of there and that can destroy the pinion seal. I'd replace the seal with a GM one and change your fluid.
      1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 94 formula
        Did you change the rear end fluid after you ran with the new gears for a little? If not you'll have a lot of metal shavings built up inside of there and that can destroy the pinion seal. I'd replace the seal with a GM one and change your fluid.

        We put new fluid in the rear and even cleaned out the housing with cleaner. Im thinking that it burned up from the added pressure when the torque arm mount brke and the arm was up against the chassis. Could that have done it?
        1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

        Comment


        • #5
          If you did lube the seal during the install .... and you have a history of the new seals leaking ..... you likely have a worn spot on the pinion gear shaft, where the seal rides. The cure is either a new gear (not such a good solution), position the seal in the housing so that it rides on a different part of the shaft (not possible with a flanged seal), or install a quick sleeve (or what ever they're called). This is a thin sleeve that is inslalled over the worn area of the shaft and gives the seal a new smooth surface to ride on.

          Gordon Arnold - '00 WS6 T/A - Sold

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by M3EATER - GG '00 WS6 T/A
            If you did lube the seal during the install .... and you have a history of the new seals leaking ..... you likely have a worn spot on the pinion gear shaft, where the seal rides. The cure is either a new gear (not such a good solution), position the seal in the housing so that it rides on a different part of the shaft (not possible with a flanged seal), or install a quick sleeve (or what ever they're called). This is a thin sleeve that is inslalled over the worn area of the shaft and gives the seal a new smooth surface to ride on.
            I will look into the quick sleeve. I dont think that there could be a worn spot because the pinion gear is brand new, less than 3 weeks old. My next question is, can the pinion seals be installed from the front on the driveshaft side, or do I have to take the whole rear apart again?
            1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

            Comment


            • #7
              Pinion seal installs from the front. I burn mine up all the time, due to the heat generated in the rear end ... from road racing.

              if the whole thing is new, you shouldn't need a quick sleeve. Try a different brand seal and be sure to lube it.

              Gordon Arnold - '00 WS6 T/A - Sold

              Comment


              • #8
                Yea, Im going to try a stock GM seal. Thanks for the help!
                1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

                Comment

                Working...
                X