Is it a lot less labor, and easier to install an entire 10 bolt with 3.42 gears then just to buy the gears alone? Would I not have to worry about fluids, and backlash etc.?
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94 Formula LT1 (Aqua Metallic) - Auto. - 104,000 miles - Charcoal Leather Mods: Magnaflow Muffler, Lingenfelter CAI, MadZ28 Tune, 160F Hyp. T-Stat., 1LE Elbow, & Summit Cutout. Options: 155 MPH Gauge Cluster, & 255-50ZR-16 Tires. -
Its a couple hours to swap out the complete rear, and fairly simple. I did a 10-bolt -> 12-bolt swap by myself with the car on jackstands, in a liesurely afternoon. There is no cost involved other than buying the used rear axle assembly. But a used rear will have used components, that would normally be replaced if you swapped in fresh gears.
I personally wouldn't attempt a gear swap, because I don't have the required tools for checking the pinion depth, nor the requisite experience in reading the tooth contact pattern. Finding someone who can do it for you can be difficult, because it seems like even the professionals can end up with noisy gears.
What are you swapping from, if you are only looking at going to 3.42's?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor -
I did the full rear swap from my stock 2.73 to a 3.42 10-bolt rear. I got a good deal on an LS1 rear, so I had to swap over my backing plates, which meant pulling the axles. Still with changing the fluids and putting in new wheel bearings and seals, it was cheaper to do this myself then to pay someone to install new gears for me.
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