Okay, I cant deal with it any more. Under heavy load theres this awful tick sound frm under the car where we had to cut the old Y pipe and put that slip on collector onto the bbk header. Im almost positive thats where the leak is, because we used gasket sealant on the gaskets and I tightened them after warm cycles for a week. Under the car where the clamp is on the slip on thing, theres black dust that looks like its just painting itself a flame right down the pipe. That has to be it, wouldnt you think??
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1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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The carbony buildup probably indicates where the leak is. I had terrible leaks after I put my BBKs on too, that clamp is just trash, and the headers didn't allow the Y-pipe to be positioned where it should have been so I had a leak at the Y-pipe/intermediate-pipe junction too. Get rid of that band clamp and get a few standard U-bolts on there. Also, you didn't use the paper gaskets that came with the headers, did you?Originally posted by blackthunder501996 T/A - BBK headers & throttle body, K&N filter, 1.6:1 Comp Cams Pro Magnums, Warbird hood w/ SLP Ram-Air -
Unfortunately we did use the paper gaskets, but we did put sealant on them. Im hoping its not them. Does the exhasut leak take alot out of performance?1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!
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Mine was bad enough so that air was getting into the exhaust and causing the O2 sensor to read a lean condition. It set off the SES light and ran filthy rich on bank 2. I don't know if that was from the pre-O2 sensor Y-pipe leak or the EGR port leak (which I forgot to mention in my first post, is also a terrible fit and a royal pain to get to seal).Originally posted by blackthunder501996 T/A - BBK headers & throttle body, K&N filter, 1.6:1 Comp Cams Pro Magnums, Warbird hood w/ SLP Ram-AirComment
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You cannot use RTV or any kind of sealant as a pipe to flange gasket. It will always just burn off after a short time. You need to a lead pipe to flange gasket if you can get one.
Depending on the severity of the leak, it can adversely affect perfomance in several ways.Comment
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If the exhaust leak is prior to the primary O2 sensors, it will mess up the fuel calibration. If it is after the sensors you'll be fine. Ultra Copper high heat silicone is what I use to seal any tough joints like what you describe. Works great when you use ut upon assembly, then use band clamps. If you crimp the pipe using traditional U clamps, you be hating yourself at some point down the line.
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