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Outer tie rod ends ?

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  • Outer tie rod ends ?

    Went and got new tires the other day and they said that my front tie rod ends were "loose" i guess and should be replaced asap. How hard are these to do and are there any special tools needed?
    96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

  • #2
    Originally posted by 96Camaro
    Went and got new tires the other day and they said that my front tie rod ends were "loose" i guess and should be replaced asap. How hard are these to do and are there any special tools needed?
    They are easy to replace if you have a gear puller. I could not get mine to let go with a pickle fork. You will have to have an alignment after you put them on though. I bought 2 for $11 each at AutoZone. You might as well replace both of them even if just 1 is bad.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      Hmm...sorry for my stupidity, but what is a gear puller? could you possibly send me a link to one so I can get an idea?
      96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 96Camaro
        Hmm...sorry for my stupidity, but what is a gear puller? could you possibly send me a link to one so I can get an idea?
        To remove the tie rod end first loosen the jam nut on the shaft to the rack and pinion. Then you take the nut off the tie rod where it goes through the brake caliper bracket. Then put the arms of the puller around the aliper bracket where the screw will push on the bolt where you took the nut off. Tighten the nut till it pops out of the caliper bracket. Then unscrew the tie rod off the end of the shaft to the rack and pinion. Put it on in reverse order. Use a string from the back wheels to the front wheel adjusting the tie rod to get it to touch on both the front and the back of the tire. That should get you close enough to get it to the alignment shop.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

        Comment


        • #5
          Hmm....well ok I think I have a better grasp on it. If I need more help I'll just post again . Oh and also anymore tips are welcome.
          96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 96Camaro
            Hmm....well ok I think I have a better grasp on it. If I need more help I'll just post again . Oh and also anymore tips are welcome.
            http://shbox.com/1/rack&pinion.jpg
            Here is a picture of the front end.
            Loosen nut #7. Remove nut #1
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

            Comment


            • #7
              Well it looks like they make a tool for it.
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment


              • #8
                I didn't use a pickle fork or a puller. If you use two hammers, you can get the tapered end to drop out of the steering knuckle. I use the same method on tapered ball joints. You will notice that the knuckle has some flat areas on either side of where the rod end attaches. Back up one side with a big hammer and hit the other side with a good sized hammer (never on the threads). The vibrations will cause the tapered joint to come loose. If you live in a state where salt is used a lot, it may not come loose so easily.
                Rob B 95Z A4 Tech Page (Part numbers / locations, how to's, schematics, DTC's...) Home Page - shbox.com

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                • #9
                  Here's a much better picture. (remove the nut first LOL)
                  2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                  1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                  A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, the pictures helped out for the understanding part a little better. I'll probly take a crack at it tomarrow after school or somthing. Oh, and how much is the tool to do it with?? I dont really feel too safe with the whole hammer thing. Eventhough I do like to use hammer persuasion on most parts .
                    96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 96Camaro
                      Thanks, the pictures helped out for the understanding part a little better. I'll probly take a crack at it tomarrow after school or somthing. Oh, and how much is the tool to do it with?? I dont really feel too safe with the whole hammer thing. Eventhough I do like to use hammer persuasion on most parts .
                      I beat the crap out of mine with a hammer and it wouldn't let go. I live in Georgia where salt is used maybe once a year too. A gear puller is about $25. Mine is made where you can use it as a 2 arm or 3 arm puller. They are more versatile and can be used in more applications compared to 2 arm only or 3 arm only.

                      That one in the last picture is a 2 arm only.
                      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Here is a 2 or 3 arm puller. See how it has 2 mounts that are 180 degrees or 3 mounts that are 120 degrees. $20
                        http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...EGRN%7C%7Etrue
                        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Ahh..ok thanks. Well looks like it might have to wait untill next pay check
                          96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

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                          • #14
                            i would use shoebox method. i live here in ct where they lay salt down all the time and we always get them out that way. use a hammer to bust it loose. also get a can of spray paint and spray part of the old tie-rod and shaft(while its still together) this will help u get the alginment close, also count how many turns it takes to come off, jsut make sure both tie-rods are the same length, if the new one is longer just turn it some more till its bout the same length. hope u understood that
                            2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                            old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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                            • #15
                              So basicly I just have to get the # of turns just close enought to be able to drive it to alignment shop and they'll do the rest right?
                              96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

                              Comment

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