well when i got the car the motor was in about 15 pieces and the tumbler had been punched out. well my parts car had one in one piece so i pulled the motor and tumbler and with a little body work had it re-installed in my car every thing works fine cept for the pull down function. replaced the relay and jacked around with it till i was ready get out the hammer. so i guess this is where yall step in and give the problem check list. oh by the way the push button works to relece the hatch and from time to time the securety light will come on.(was guessing it was caused by the hatch bouncing around.
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hatch pull down motor blues
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4th gen or 3rd gen? sounds like a 4th gen by the sec. light coming on. make sure the motor functions(hard wire it str8 to a power source) then go from there2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
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this isnt a solution really, but mine wasnt functioning and then one day my trunk accidentally got slammed shut and it started working again. Of course this is not a fix but perhaps there is something stuck that needs some coaxing to get moving.-Dan
1986 350 TPI Trans Am, 700R-4, Flowmaster exhaust, CAI, 180* t/stat, low temp fan switch, SFC's....Sold.
Project Status: LT1 disassembled, researching costs, searching for project car.
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id fix ur wiring harness and that may solve ur problem. but did u try researching it on thirdgen.org? there were 2 or 3 different style motors. does the motor run? if so it might be the plastic gear stripped2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
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Originally posted by 88bird5spdid fix ur wiring harness and that may solve ur problem. but did u try researching it on thirdgen.org? there were 2 or 3 different style motors. does the motor run? if so it might be the plastic gear stripped
To test the motor it is just a matter of supplying +/- 12v to it. There are two small holes in the reversing switch that allow you to test it with test probes. Alternatively you can remove the reversing switch by removing the Phillips-head screw attaching it to the clear plastic motor-housing. You'll expose the two terminals on the motor that the reversing switch makes contact with.
Here is Lon Solgren's (Top Down Solutions) tech article: http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/te...chpulldown.pdf
'87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
'88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
Bruce, μολων λαβέ
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Originally posted by 97LT1Z28I had an '87 that the rear-hatch pull-down motor went out. I pulled the motor out, got it into the "pulled down" position, put a sheet metal screw through the shaft and locked it in place. Then I mounted the motor assembly back in. Then it was just like a normal hatchback. Problem solved.
'87 Camaro - 2.8L MPFI, 700R4 swapped to T5, B&M Ripper Shifter, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, CATCO high flow cat, K&N air filters, 180 degree thermostat w/200-180 fan switch, 3.42 rear end, Global West steering brace, polyurethane bushings/trans mount, Spohn adjustable torque arm.
'88 Formula (stolen), '96 Camaro RS, (sold), '91 Firebird (sold),
Bruce, μολων λαβέ
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